Chine logs - Wooden Boat People2024-03-28T17:39:39Zhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/forum/topics/chine-logs?commentId=1312281%3AComment%3A157240&x=1&feed=yes&xn_auth=noI use 5/8" thick chine logs.…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-30:1312281:Comment:1572402019-10-30T16:42:53.066ZDave Zhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/DaveZielinski
<p>I use 5/8" thick chine logs. never a failure. But what I find most important is that flat sawn material be used. looking at your grain lines, you are trying to bend it the hard way against the grain. rotating your stock to be flat sawn, bending in the way it wants to (or resists less) is key.</p>
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<p>I have moved away from 3/4" stock on all my boats, to 5/8" I don't notice any difference and don't baby any boat I have or will ever own.</p>
<p>Dave</p>
<p>I use 5/8" thick chine logs. never a failure. But what I find most important is that flat sawn material be used. looking at your grain lines, you are trying to bend it the hard way against the grain. rotating your stock to be flat sawn, bending in the way it wants to (or resists less) is key.</p>
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<p>I have moved away from 3/4" stock on all my boats, to 5/8" I don't notice any difference and don't baby any boat I have or will ever own.</p>
<p>Dave</p> Thanks all for the advice all…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-26:1312281:Comment:1574312019-10-26T14:45:34.929ZBrian Wilsonhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/BrianWilson
<p>Thanks all for the advice all. One down and one to go!</p>
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<p>Thanks all for the advice all. One down and one to go!</p>
<p></p> Hey Brian,
Is the chine log f…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-25:1312281:Comment:1571332019-10-25T22:00:07.679ZShawn Bakerhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/ShawnBaker
<p>Hey Brian,</p>
<p>Is the chine log fastened to the ply side at the chine? If not, consider resawing the chine log into (2) x 3/8" thick planks, and laminate them together. The laminate will be slippery enough before it cures that you can get it to conform to the curve of the chine. When it cures, it will be locked in place.</p>
<p>I wouldn't steam a scarfed joint--it will likely fail when you heat it.</p>
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<p>Is your ash green or kiln-dried? When I did my gunnels, I clamped them…</p>
<p>Hey Brian,</p>
<p>Is the chine log fastened to the ply side at the chine? If not, consider resawing the chine log into (2) x 3/8" thick planks, and laminate them together. The laminate will be slippery enough before it cures that you can get it to conform to the curve of the chine. When it cures, it will be locked in place.</p>
<p>I wouldn't steam a scarfed joint--it will likely fail when you heat it.</p>
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<p>Is your ash green or kiln-dried? When I did my gunnels, I clamped them in place for a month while I worked on other parts of the boat. As they dried, they held shape. This could work for you, but would also cost a delay in the building process.</p>
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<p>Yet another option would be to clamp on an outer board (could be 1x4 pine) to get the chine log to curve without twisting or deforming your ply until the chine settles.<br/><br/>Usually I'd advocate you "listen to the wood", but your chine log is screaming at you, and you need to give it some persuasion! And if it makes you feel better, I'll point out the flaws in Great Falls. We all have things we'd do differently and few others will ever notice!</p> I don't get over here much an…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-23:1312281:Comment:1570532019-10-23T22:53:09.036ZMike Bakerhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/MikeBaker
<p>I don't get over here much anymore. Here is my .02 after building close to 40 boats. </p>
<p>Use West Gflex on that scarf. I had a few failures with t-88. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol several times first.</p>
<p>Steam that chine!. Clamp it on the outside at the scarf and use 4" PVC. Make a set up so you can remove the tube easily, steam it for 45 min. remove the tube and clamp it to the side. You will have to do the front half then the rear half.</p>
<p>Leave it for a day or two. When…</p>
<p>I don't get over here much anymore. Here is my .02 after building close to 40 boats. </p>
<p>Use West Gflex on that scarf. I had a few failures with t-88. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol several times first.</p>
<p>Steam that chine!. Clamp it on the outside at the scarf and use 4" PVC. Make a set up so you can remove the tube easily, steam it for 45 min. remove the tube and clamp it to the side. You will have to do the front half then the rear half.</p>
<p>Leave it for a day or two. When you remove the clamps it will spring back some but will have enough curve built in to make installing it a LOT easier.</p>
<p>Others have done the plastic bag trick and may chine in here (pun intended :).</p>
<p>B.T.W. that is one of the most brutal boats to build due to the flair angle and flat spot.</p>
<p>Mike</p> T-88 is an epoxy adhesive wit…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-23:1312281:Comment:1568812019-10-23T17:40:27.925ZEric Loudenslagerhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/EricLoudenslager
<p>T-88 is an epoxy adhesive with gap filling capability. It probably would not be improved by adding a modifier. Some woods, like white oak (I can't recall about ash) have oils that inhibit a good bond using conventional epoxy adhesives. West sells an epoxy adhesive specifically for these types of woods.</p>
<p>I have used T-88 to scarf ash. I wiped down the scarf with ethyl alcohol, then applied a coat of laminating epoxy, and once that started to set, applied the T-88. No failures…</p>
<p>T-88 is an epoxy adhesive with gap filling capability. It probably would not be improved by adding a modifier. Some woods, like white oak (I can't recall about ash) have oils that inhibit a good bond using conventional epoxy adhesives. West sells an epoxy adhesive specifically for these types of woods.</p>
<p>I have used T-88 to scarf ash. I wiped down the scarf with ethyl alcohol, then applied a coat of laminating epoxy, and once that started to set, applied the T-88. No failures yet.</p>
<p>Also, the joint may have been too tightly clamped and too much glue squeezed out, leaving a starved joint.</p> Thanks David!tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-22:1312281:Comment:1567902019-10-22T23:10:22.645ZBrian Wilsonhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/BrianWilson
<p>Thanks David!</p>
<p>Thanks David!</p> Here are a couple of suggesti…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-21:1312281:Comment:1568762019-10-21T14:42:27.225ZDavid Wittonhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/DavidWitton
<p>Here are a couple of suggestions - I'd roughen up your scarf surfaces with some 80 grit paper and redo the epoxy, this time with a bit of cabosil to enhance the space filling characteristics of the epoxy. I'd say it's pretty unusual to see a scarf joint like that fail. When I built my boat I steam bent the chines and <a href="http://woodenboatpeople.org/forum/topics/16-double-ender-w-transom?id=1312281%3ATopic%3A129034&page=3#comments" target="_self">chine logs</a> that worked well. Your…</p>
<p>Here are a couple of suggestions - I'd roughen up your scarf surfaces with some 80 grit paper and redo the epoxy, this time with a bit of cabosil to enhance the space filling characteristics of the epoxy. I'd say it's pretty unusual to see a scarf joint like that fail. When I built my boat I steam bent the chines and <a href="http://woodenboatpeople.org/forum/topics/16-double-ender-w-transom?id=1312281%3ATopic%3A129034&page=3#comments" target="_self">chine logs</a> that worked well. Your dimensions for the chine log are fine. </p> Hi Rick,
3/4 x 2 1/2 with a b…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-21:1312281:Comment:1564222019-10-21T04:30:56.892ZBrian Wilsonhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/BrianWilson
<p>Hi Rick,</p>
<p>3/4 x 2 1/2 with a bevel taken out. </p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Brian</p>
<p>Hi Rick,</p>
<p>3/4 x 2 1/2 with a bevel taken out. </p>
<p>Thanks,</p>
<p>Brian</p> What thickness is your chine…tag:woodenboatpeople.org,2019-10-21:1312281:Comment:1564192019-10-21T00:18:39.822ZRick Newmanhttp://woodenboatpeople.org/profile/RickNewman
<p>What thickness is your chine log? 7/8 of an inch is common if I remember correctly. I will later check out a chunk I have left from my chine log that came as part of a Tatmen kit many years ago.</p>
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<p>Rick Newman</p>
<p>What thickness is your chine log? 7/8 of an inch is common if I remember correctly. I will later check out a chunk I have left from my chine log that came as part of a Tatmen kit many years ago.</p>
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<p>Rick Newman</p>