Don Hill 16' for a First Build

Hello Everyone,

I've been looking in on this site for a little while now, and have finally decided to build my own drifter. I bought the Don Hill plans for a 16' standard. After looking at the threads by Phil Westendorf and Guy Fredrickson, I'm really excited about beginning my own boat.

I've got some skills, already being an accomplished knifemaker, as a second-generation machinist. I've built houses, and turned bowls, and lots of other crafty stuff, so the skills are there - just not the interest - until now.

Has anyone here bult a boat using the Don Hill method of not using a strongback? Is it ay easier? Is the boat any good when its done? I'd really love to hear some advice from those of you who've built one this way. It'll be pretty difficult to compete with the boats that Guy and Phil are making, but I figure that just starting out would give me a good boat to play with, and allow me to develop good habits to inject into my next build.

 

Anyhow, thanks for listening to me, and its great to be here.

 

Kibby

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Permalink Reply by Kibby on August 28, 2012 at 9:52pm

You know now I'm kind of enjoying the exploration of your site, Rodger. Its like there's a new little treat around every corner, like I am a kid picking up Easter Eggs. Just when you think you've found them all, whoop! Another one pops up.

Dont change a THING! :-)

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 28, 2012 at 1:26pm

Welcome Kibby,

Cool Knives! Like Rick said you will have to scarf the plywood. As for the 16' length I have done a lot of 15'9" boats. You might have to move the #1 frame a little forward of the recommended spot. I also prefer the System three epoxy (Silver tip) as it is very user friendly. Good luck and good building.

Mike

http://www.bakerwooddriftboats.com/

Permalink Reply by tungsten on August 28, 2012 at 1:55pm

You can get 16' plywood but its more then double the cost of 8' so not worth it.scarphs are easy, do a couple practise runs.you can also get a puzzel joint done` there really easy if your handy with a jig and a router.

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/7403/foam007.jpg

and i'll second anything other then West for epoxy,others are much cheaper and do the same thing.also weighing your mixtures is much easier.

also the smell from epoxy is almost nill,its the hardner that gives off a little but nothing like poly resin

 

Permalink Reply by Steve Sobba on August 28, 2012 at 8:04pm

Kibby, I built an 18 foot DH with out a strongback.  I have a slight twist  in my boat.  The line of contact the roller of the trailer touches the bottom of the boat.  I have a 1/2 to 5/8 inch  gap.  The boat sets level at the front trailer support but not at the back.   

I was well into my project before I found this site.  I followed the plans and video.  From Bow tip to transom top  edge is (?) 16 foot 6 inches after starting  with to sides of 18 feet.  A lot of wiggle room... maybe with the shorter model one would have better control during the build.

We have been short on water in Kansas almost since I finished the build. Have not had it on a moving water body yet.   Use it with a 6 hp motor . I can not tell it is off.  Would like to take it to the northwest and see how it handles.  I enjoyed myself those 18 months(May 2008 to Nov 2009) of building.  Love the lines of this boat!

 A do over? , for that size I might use a strong back. I think you should  be able to get in to my posts and pictures here on the the site. Beautiful Knives!  Happy sawdust!  Steve Sobba

Permalink Reply by Kibby on August 28, 2012 at 9:59pm

If you had to do it over again, and use a strongback, how would you go about it? Would you attach the ribs to the strongback and go from there?

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 29, 2012 at 7:15pm

Kibby,

Before you make a final decision on wether to use a strongback.  Take a look in Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project, Pages 18 -19.  Guy shows the assembly of the sides to the frames without a strongback.  His accuracy in making the frames and side pieces, their reinforcement and his determination to make things accurate are very well demonstrated in his posting.  Proof that you don't need a strongback if you are willing to do what's necessary.

I, on the other hand, have built a robust strongback and glad I did.  I'ts necesary for the way I chose to build my boat. 

I assume from your work skills as a "machinist" (I spent 41 years in the machine tool and automotive industry as a Designer/Mfg. Eng'r and have a great appreciation for your "kind") you only need to make the committment to "Do It".  It's a whole lot of fun and you get to Float the thing when your done.

G'Luck,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Steve Sobba on September 1, 2012 at 9:13am

The video I believe just had the middle rib ?5th hung by  a rope to the ceiling .I used a saw horse that lifted the boat off the floor at both ends.  the bottom is curve fore and aft of that  middle rib so strong back may be difficult to construct.  I think if  I would utilized  a center line on a modified strongback  attached to the floor. Would attach the sides to bow and transom . Turn upside down  on a support of the middle rib. Place middle rib  over the center line  tip of bow secured over center line and center of transom over center line and secure transom outer edges to maintain center line avoiding a twist then set in all the ribs and from there.   And support each rib as it is placed .?  I marked the rib placement stations on the side panels  and then applied  Clear Coat System 3 epoxy to the inside  x2 before assembling the ribs. Ribs were coated as well as bow ,white oak ,and transom. Hope helps and not confusing.  Steve

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on August 30, 2012 at 9:50am

No strongback needed for a framed build.  I suppose if you were building a bunch of boats it woudl be nice, but in 6 framed builds, none of my boats are "racked" and no strongback used. Many ways to skin this cat.  None are wrong.  Good luck!

Permalink Reply by Kibby on September 4, 2012 at 7:09am

Well today I am sitting at home while the heating guy installs my  new on-demand water heater and Rinnai wall heater. We've switched to these units to allay our outrageous oil bill. I've done some careful calculations and I am convinced it will save me around $2500 this year. That said, my shop is my two-car garage, which is located under my ranch-style house. You guessed it: The wall heater will replace the old tired forced-air furnace and ductwork which takes up a significant area of my shop. Ripping all of that out will begin as soon as the new gear gets installed. I'm psyched!

I've been reading the West System site. Good stuff, and I cant wait to get started. This is sure to be a fun project. What do you guys think of the Woodhaven Scarfing Sled?

http://www.woodhaven.com/Scarfing-Sled-Router/b/3026348011 

Do you think it'd be worth having?

Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on September 4, 2012 at 10:27am

Kibby, a Woodhaven Scarf tool would be a wonderful tool, especially if you plan on doing lots of scarfs. Homebuilt sacrf tools will work well too. Check out the one that Guy Fredrickson built. I always enjoy buying new tools, I just don't have a source for tool money right now so I am forced to adapt or build from scrap or repurposed items. A good hand plane will also work wonders. I have seven hand planes now and only have about $95 invested in total. I do have a lot of time invested in sharpening and fettling with them to get them to perform. A belt sander is also very handy for this task. Try out some options unless that $2,500 is burning a hole in your pocket! :<)

I just reread some of Roger's book again and realized just how much I had forgotten and how well Roger understands the drift boat building process. I just got the bottom on my boat yesterday, about four years after I started. Most people won't take that long but I had numerous delays like going back to school for two years, building a fireplace and mantle, etc. Will be posting pictures soon. Time to go back and trim the excess floor with my newly sharpened seven dollar jack plane!


Rick Newman

Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on September 4, 2012 at 8:26pm

For scarfing plywood panels (1/4 and 1/2 inch) a sharp hand plane is my tool of choice.  I use a low angle jack plane or a #7 jointer.  Hydrotech is hard on the blades so re-sharpening during the job is likely unavoidable.  Quiet, little dust, and you can establish consistent angle using the plywood laminations.

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on September 6, 2012 at 7:05am

Im with Eric.  Take your time, satisfy yourself with a well tuned hand plane.  You can start the job with an electric hand planer, but finish it up nice and easy with a sharp hand plane.  For a one time build, i can't justify making fancy jigs.  Here I am six boats later (and workign on #7)  and still no jigs...I built one of my boats entirely with hand tools.  I still use a brace and bit to drive Si bronze screws.  Not saying this is all the best method, but don't overlook tried and true.  with your level of knife making skill, you ought to have the sharp hand plane thing down!!! good luck.

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