Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on May 30, 2016 at 9:32am

(A little off topic from boats)

I know, right? It took me 40 yrs to come up with a few nice rods. Ive got a handful of Orvis rods but always wanted a T&T. I would have hated to loose that one, it was a new rod I bought, a 9`4 pc "No Sancuary" 5wt . Ive got a couple used T&T`s I bought, and this wall hanger with a story.

This is a 10 wt that Tom Dorsey made in the early years, that he gave to a guy who is now in Maine as a wedding present. The guy had it on ebay, and after he told me about it, I felt bad, I didnt want to take it, as no one bid on it and I got it on a really low bid. I tried to talk him into keeping it, and he said he would never use it again. I think he should have kept it. Its in fine usable condition.

Its a gray blank, when they first started making graphite rods they were gray,and the ser#s had a g and a number, and there was no name on the rod blank. That was in 1969. Not sure about this number.

The sections were joined with a connector of sorts, unlike the modern rods.

It has the original roll stamp on the reel seat that they still use to this day.

I tried sending a email to them but didnt get a response. I might just try again to get some history on it.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on June 13, 2016 at 4:27pm

Got ahold of T&T, that rod is only 25 yrs or so old.

Back on topic :)

So I went back and forth with 2 different height oarlock blocks, seat release swivels bla bla..Going back to just metal swivels lowered the seat close to that magic 16", and it actually worked nice this past trip on the river, but I ordered some of those oarlocks from Regal with the extended shafts. They were here when I got back from my trip instead of the 4 days before like they were suppose to.

5/8" shafts, 2" longer than the standard 3". The lock is also 1/4" or so beefier at the bottom of the horn so a little more height there too.

They come with some spacers so I can raise them 1/2,1 or 1 1/2" in the lock block. Since I made the blocks higher I can only get the 1" higher but thats about perfect and I can add the seat releases back on and my oar height issue is resolved.

On the way back from our float outing I stopped in a outfitter shop and I couldnt resist this sticker for the boat. I`m not big on putting any stickers on my boat but this one is kinda cool, and I had just the spot for it :)

So so far in my 2 trips in this boat I have not been very bad ass at all,lol

Oh ya, also thinned out those oar shafts and it did really help, and I added 3" more on the wrap to try them. I`ll re wrap them now that they are tuned in better

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