Bedding Bottom in 3M 5200

Ok - so I getting close to putting the bottom on my boat. Got it rough cut last night and am hoping to get it screwed and glued in the next couple days.
So the 3M adhesive... after the frames and chine are coated with the adhesive and the bottom goes on and gets screwed down, can you just wipe the excess amount away from joints if it oozes out? Do I need to use a rag with spirits or anything like that? I have never used this goop before, and am looking for the "just make sure you don't" tips! haha

Thanks fellas.
-jk-

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Permalink Reply by Mike Dearing on March 6, 2009 at 6:21am
Jason,

You've gotta use some kind of solvent to remove excess, that stuff is really nasty. Seems like I remember spending a lot of time underneath the boat cleaning it all off where it oozed out between the ribs and bottom.

Mike
Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on March 6, 2009 at 6:44am
I thought so... just use some thinner?
Permalink Reply by Mike Dearing on March 6, 2009 at 6:52am
Thinner might work, I hate to say this but I think I used white gas.

Mike
Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on March 6, 2009 at 6:54am
not to sound dumb - but what is white gas? is that just like reg. gasoline?
Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on March 6, 2009 at 8:40am
Mineral spirits and tons of paper towels will clean 5200 that has not cured.

But REMEMBER those towels are flammable. Don't use a rag and pile then in a corner. A number of boat garages have been burnt to the ground from the self combustible cotton rags of paint thinner. We use a dry paper towel until most of the goop has been removed, then use a little 100% mineral spirits (refined pain thinner) to clean up the little bit that is left.

If you miss a few spots and the 5200 drys you can knife it away from the wood and sand; however, just like the gel magic, it is a lot faster to do the clean up job as you build and the glue is soft rather than try to clean up after the glue is dry.
Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on March 6, 2009 at 9:21am
Thanks for the info.
Now I just need to get out of work so I can go get started!
Its 60 degrees here today, and I am itching to get building.

-jk-
Permalink Reply by sanderson on March 6, 2009 at 9:36am
don't do the "I'll clean it later" thing. it comes off relatively easy with almost any solvent when it is wet. if you let it dry even the tiny drips are a pain to get off. use a putty knife or a stick to get the big stuff out first. paper towels work good but old rags work better, but don't expect to use them ever again.
Permalink Reply by Roger Fletcher on March 6, 2009 at 12:46pm
Brad Dimock built one the boats in my book last year. He's a creative guy, genius really. Guys like him are one of the reasson my forehead is flat, from slapping myself as a I say, Gosh, why didn;t I think of that. A picture is worth a thousand words, so see attached. The technique minimizes smearing and the need to clean up after oneself.
Attachments:
Permalink Reply by sanderson on March 6, 2009 at 2:04pm
funny, that's exactly how I put a boat bottom on. I

think that is the only way to do it alone.
Permalink Reply by Roger Fletcher on March 6, 2009 at 3:25pm
For one person, yes, that's a good way to go. I'd take it one step further before applying the compund - I'd dry screw the bottom panel into place with a few strategically placed fasteners, and then use a block plane or other suitable instrument to fair the bottom panel to the chine line of the side panel. That way, any seepage when the compound is applied won't gum up my plane. I hate that when it happens. Mark, and remove panel, dab the stem end, realign the panel precisely, anchor the stem end with the fasteners, lift and prop the bottom panel, and then apply the material. Both the established marks and previous applied screws can serve as a guide for final installation. Fasteners applied about 4" on center across the frames and 3" on center around the chine, will "spread" the compound via pressure and keep "seepage" to a minimum. The panel can be finished off with a sander. Oh. and another thing to remember, and it's eay to forget - when establishing the centerline of each frame on the panel, don't forget to mark the weep holes so a fastener isn't driven into that open hole. Smile. .
Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on March 7, 2009 at 5:57am
Thanks guys - this is all great info.
It is going to save me a heck of a mess - based on how I originally visualized doing this...
I am going to give it a go today... and we will see who she turns out.

I dry fit the bottom last night and all the joints look pretty snug so that is good.
All holes are pre-drilled and ready for the final glue and screw.
To my delight - every screw found a home without missing the mark.

And Roger, I have been smiling ever since I started building... : )

Thanks again - time for coffee, maybe some breakfast, with a healthy side of 5200...
Permalink Reply by Greg Hatten on March 7, 2009 at 2:54pm
Roger - I know that "flat spot" on your forehead... I have one too - but it's from beating my head against the wall.
Needed a little extra weight to get the bottom down so I did a little "improvising".

Please note the Coffee Pot that holds a bowl of hot "bee's wax" that I used to dip the stainless screws in just before drilling them.
Greg

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