Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Chime replacement or repair on Chrenshaw Douglas Fir driftboat
Hi all: I am now to this site and to restoring boats, but thanks in advance. We are restoring a Chrenshaw 12' driftboat I have been using for about 7 years. All appears to be in good shape, except the chimes. I am looking for advice on whether to try to repair or replace these.
The chimes are of oak, the bottom is of formica. In only one place are the chimes really broken but they are badly worn in many places, as the attached photos show. The split shown could probably be repaired, but I am more concerned about the worn places that are so far gone that the formica bottom is no being protected. I am almost certain that the chimes are overlaid on top of the connection between the boat's sides and the floor. That is, replacing the chimes would not require opening up the bottom of the boat fully.
Should I try to restore function to the existing chimes or replace? If restore, what would you recommend? If replace, I have never done this before, so could use advice here.
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December 2011 019.jpg, 978 KB
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Darrell Lyons on
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Ralph Crenshaw, Junction City, OR, made his wood drift boats and covered bottom with formica; his "trade mark".
I had a chance to meet Ralph and was able to purchase one of his last boats (14') many years ago (wish I still had it). I made many trips in that boat (Deschutes, Rogue, Siletz, Clackamas, Nestucca, etc.) ahh..those memories of white water using garbage bags to keep gear dry!!! You can heat the formica to loosen the adhesive and remove the old; then apply new formica covering!
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Permalink Reply by Joe Kerkvliet on
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Well since we are on the topic, The formica is in pretty good shape, with some minor chipping and cracking. The plan is to add a protective layer over it, and I am at present investigating a 3M product 1500. Perhaps I can extend this over chewed chimes and call it good? Has anyone used this product or have opinion/insight?
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And just to flush out options any opinions/insights on chime replacement would also be appreciated. I got a sweet deal on teak at the local Restore, so therefore have the wood at hand. I don't want to compromise the present integrity of the boat though, and don't expect the old chimes to come off easy ( have tried to turn some of the old steel, flathead screws and find resistance). If you have experience please chime in.
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Note that what my friend originally called 1500 turns out to be 5200.
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Permalink Reply by Adam "Dutch" Gottschling on
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Joe,
I restored a Crenshaw Driftboat a few years ago. It is the exact same boat you have. Mine was in Okay shape and the restore went well. The boat also had formica on the bottom. I had a thought that i would leave it on there and just see how it worked and so on. It had some cracks and separation going on. I figured since i was already restoring the boat i might as well put a bottom on the boat that will last as long as me. Did 23 oz. fiberglass, flow coats and a graphite finish. I'm glad i did.
Dutch,
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Thanks for the input. Did you replace The chimes in the process? If so, how did that go? On a side note it would be cool to see a picture of yours restore to compare.
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Permalink Reply by Terry E Walsh on
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What did u decide to do?
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We've pretty much decided to try working with 5200 in preventing the chimes and formica bottom from getting worse. A year from now we will take another look to see if we have succeeded. Any tips on working with 5200 would be appreciated.
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That stuff is a sticky nasty mess that requires you to go slow and be careful! The only way to do it is to jump right in and get started! That bottom is still in good shape really, just patch it up a bit and you will be good to go! Eventually you will to work on it and this will give you some time to decide how you want to go forward.
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Permalink Reply by John Greenleaf on
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My experience w/ 5200 - Mineral Spirits and paper towels work well to clean up after applying (do it soon after). Acetone works well to clean tools or other things that get coated in 5200 (fill a jar and let it soak for 24; stuff bubbles and comes right off). Just my empirical observation (not sure how valid)- I wouldn't use acetone to clean up where you have applied it though, as it seems the acetone really affects the 5200 and may compromise the bond while things are still curing. Once dry and cured, not much will get it off and it is very difficult to sand. Though it does seem vulnerable to cutting/sharp blades. A piece of rag soaked in acetone and placed on a offending spot of 5200 spot for an hour or two may help things along (you just something to prevent the acetone from evaporation right away and stay in contact with the spot). Don't get it on your skin, hair or clothing unless you plan on having it there for a while. JG
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Since 5200 is such a mess to work with... what is second best to seal the bottom of a boat? Thanks
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Don't get me wrong - I love the stuff; it's just a mess.
I'm kind of unclear what your trying to do with it but from reading above it seems like you want to patch up various spots in the chines and the formica bottom, correct?
I would not suggest it for use on the bottom - it is extremely tacky. Epoxy with graphite is probably a better move and will make for a slicker bottom.
Also, as a general rule, don't use it on anything you might later want to remove or replace (like a chine). Use a polysulfide-type caulk for this. They are waterproof but more easily removed. I have used 5200 on things like attaching the frames to the side panels and attaching the bottom to the frames. It gives you a mess but it also gives you a massively strong and somewhat flexible connection. JG
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