Awsome site, I've really learned a ton from reading the various contributions!

 

I'm starting in on a double ender w/ transom from Roger's Book and have a question about the frames. I've seen people use various numbers of either screws or bolts to fasten the side frame pieces to the bottom frame piece. As (I assume) it is the glue that really does the bonding work; what then is the relative advantage of these screws vs. bolts (i.e., is one better or is their purpose mostly to hold the frames together until the adhesive sets/aesthetic)? Also, is it better to have less in terms of the numbers (say, 2 versus 4 screws)?

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We use two screws, #8 x 1 in and counter sink deep. We then use fillet as an epoxy plug in the counter sink hole. You are correct, the epoxy will hold the joint. The screws add a little extra leverage.

There is no need to use a bolt on the frames.
John: Don't forget to use silicon bronze screws- or stainless steel 316. No "brass" screws from the hardware store- too soft.
Good Luck
Thanks guys. One other thing... I Was cutting a few practice frames on some old 3/4" pine stock to make sure I had my procedure down before starting in on the good stuff. While at it, I was messing around with the trimmer and the 1/4 round bit. I decided I really like the look of the rounded frame edges. Is there any reason not to round the frames (in general) or are there any places say, besides where the frames meet the side panels where this would be a bad idea?
John: If i were at it I might leave the edges at the plywood/ frame junctuions "square" at the sides and the bottom- Gives slightly more bearing area and eliminates the gap to trap moisture and sand- which might tend to rot. Same is true at the chines/ inwalwes/out wales. The rest of the edhes can be radiuse with a small spokeshave- really small from specialty wood working cataslogs (mine is from exacto) or use one of the snmall radieus planes .
Good Luck PS radiused edges will hold paint much better
Hey John,
I use three screws counter sunk and filled with Famowood Wood filler (walnut) because I like the contrast. I put my three screws in the corners where the chine isn't.

I round all my frames. One word of caution, the frames with a lot of angle are tricky if you don't have a router table. On the one side of frame will cut really deep because there is nothing for the guide beraing to ride on and the other side wont cut at all, you might want to round these by hand. Cut some scrap stock and play around.
Mike
http://bakerwooddriftboats.com

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