Framed Beavertail

It became official for me today that I am going to start my first build, I chose the Beavertail from Sandy at MRB.  I am using northern cedar for frames and interior seating.  White Oak for chine logs and possibly sheer rail, i may use cedar for rails.  It became official for me because I made the 3hr trip for Marine grade Douglas Fir AB plywood in Ohio.  With the plywood in the shop and a couple frames started i am extremely excited to say the least.  Placed orders through raka and jamestown a few minutes ago.  I have a dozen or so people looking for a trailer i can fix up.

 

The only thing weighing on my mind is the pics of Z's drifter pram, I want to build one those boats alongside this one.  I talked to Dave today for some advice on buying the ply, and he told me he is pretty far on his new boat.  I cant wait to see it, but part of me doesnt want to because i am afraid i am going to want that one too.

 

later on,

don, im heading to the garage(I got the coffee on)

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Permalink Reply by John Weston on April 6, 2014 at 8:53am

good for you. now get ta building so ya can go a fishin. pic's too.

JW

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 6, 2014 at 6:07pm

Get this first one done and if you have acquired the illness correctly, you will build plenty more!

Permalink Reply by Don Ward on April 7, 2014 at 9:10pm

Last night i scarfed the 1/4", the second one turned out great, the first one uggghh, i think i am gonna take a quarter inch off and redo it, the tips have a couple chips and that is going to be the inside of the boat

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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on April 8, 2014 at 5:42am

Don:  scarf looks great and the DF PW has only 1 football  - much better quality than I can find of late.  Your shop needs some work- too clean and organized.  " Never trust a man with a clean shop"- from some guy on Wooden Boat Forum.

Good Luck 

Permalink Reply by Don Ward on April 8, 2014 at 5:55pm

has anyone used northern cedar for frames, and seats and seat rails?

 

I was a carpenter for over a dozen years and worked with many guys that garage, truck, job site were packed full of tools, materials, garbage, etc., i vowed never to let my stuff get like that, we would spend half the day looking for stuff (drove me nuts) when i started my company rule one was to clean up after each job! I carried that over into my rod and net business.

 

Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on April 9, 2014 at 6:14am

Don:  I have not used NW Cedar  but in looking in the Forestry Handbook  Nail Holding, Glue ability ,hardness and rupture are all about the same for Port Orford Cedar which is a popular wood for frames.  I have used Eastern Spruce  with good results. You might want to increase the thickness of frames a little bit as it is not as strong as White Oak.

My father was a tool and diemaker and at work he wore a lab coat.  When we worked together around the house I drove him nuts!

Good Luck

Permalink Reply by Don Ward on April 10, 2014 at 9:32pm

After tonight, I have the 1/4" ply scarfed and glued, epoxy came today, i also glued together two pieces of 1/4" for the transom, This boat has five frames and i have 3 built and the other two have the legs cut just need to make the bottom pieces, i am going to add 2 frames when the boat is together so it is easier to build the fly deck, floor and rear seat.  I fell a couple boards short from the local cedar i had, so this morning on my way to check out a spot to host a rod building class on the Little J, I stopped one of very few places that have northern cedar and got the needed wood.  Probably wont do much til sat night due to our trout opener on sat, at that time i might lift the clamps and then finish the frames, i will cut out for the chine logs and drill drainage holes then sand and make them look pretty and also 1/4" roundover bit on the floor

Permalink Reply by Don Ward on April 14, 2014 at 12:29pm

The five main frames are done, tonight i will be cutting in drain holes, cutting out for chine logs and sanding.  The scarf on the 1/4" is done and i think it looks good, and most important it is holding together!  Transom is cut out and will be trimmed tonight.

 

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Permalink Reply by Don Ward on April 16, 2014 at 9:08pm

Any advice on what brand paint for the outside of the boat?  I want a burgundy color, not sure where to buy it. thanks, don

Permalink Reply by Jayson Hayes on April 17, 2014 at 9:38am

Don, I like to use Pettit Easypoxy, just make sure you use the ez-prime as a base coat before you lay down any color or you could potentially have some issues with it curing. I haven't had any problems myself and have been using it for about 15 years but have heard horror stories from others that haven't used it properly. the burgundy color is very nice too but will appear more red with the first coat because of the white primer so multiple coats will bring out a nice rich burgundy color and a really durable finish that is easy to touch up every couple of years as you need to

Permalink Reply by Don Ward on April 17, 2014 at 9:05pm

thanks jason, is the primer neccesary if i epoxied the outside first? and will a quart do the job if i am just painting the outside sides?

Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on April 18, 2014 at 5:15am

Don:  Suggest whatever paint you use clean off the epoxy/FG with ammonia and water using a "scrubby" to get any amine blush off the hull.  Some brands of epoxy are advertised as "no blush"- but take a little extra time to make it perfectly clean.

Good luck 

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