Much as I hate to think of adding plastic to an all wooden drift boat I am thinking that may be the best solution. The space between the handrail and the inside of the boat where the oar lock horns need to fit is 1 1/4 inches and the hole that needs to be drilled to accept the plastic sleeve with which the brass horn fits is 7/8" diameter. The oak that I have been using then splits since there is only 3/16" wood left on each side of the hole. Does anyone know of a source that would have plastic that is 1 1/4" thick that I could drill out to accept the horns? The other solution would be to stay with wood and eliminate the plastic sleeve but I'm not sure even that would prevent the cracking/spitting.--Randy

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Randy, If you are not a purist (all wood), a plastic block, as you are suggesting is the way to go. It is quiet, no maintenance and is easily replaceable. I think Randy and Sandy could help you out at Tatman and maybe even cut you a custom dimension. Cheers, Robb
Thanks, Robb. The more I think about it, what you say is the way to go. I will not need the sleeve, which means a smaller hole. Can you think of where I could find the plastic block in Portland?
Hey Randy,
Try http://www.plasticsheetdirect.com/ I think they have a location in Portland. I get my UHMW from them (that is what you want for the oar blocks). I am a big fan of using UHMW for the oar blocks. I like to make mine 8" long and put four 5/8 holes in them for adjustability ( no bushing needed). I use the reproccessed black stuff.
Mike
Thanks Mike,

At 8" long and 1 1/4" thick are you able to bend stiff UHMW enough to match the curve of the boat or do you have to buy thicker material and shape it? I would guess shaping it would be a real job....sanding more out of the center on one side and the ends on the other side.
I usually don't need to shape it, just kind of force it when you bolt it in. There isn't a ton of curve where the blocks go. and what little there is will usually conform. The wood does most of the conforming.
Mike
I have UHMW oarlock blocks. I have two sets in different locations fore and aft so I can switch rowing positions depending on how the boat needs to be trimmed/passenger arrangement.
www.mcmaster.com

search for the plastic called: Delrin. Here's a link....

http://www.mcmaster.com/#plastics/=6qh4fd

You can have it white or black.

I use oak drilled for bronze bushings however.
Thanks everybody for the advice. I think I have found a good solution. I went to http://www.plasticsheetdirect.com/ as Mike Baker suggested and called the 800 # listed on their web site and reached a person that works out of his home located in Tualatin, Or...very close to me. He thought that UHMW would be the best due to its durability, stability and slickness over the Delrin material. He does not stock it but just takes orders. He did refer me to Alvin Payne at Plastic Machining at 12826 NE Airport Way, Portland, OR 97230 503-251-0835 alvin@iplastics.net. Alvin was very knowledgeable and easy to work with and has manufactured these same oar blocks for the Willie Boats Co. We used 1 1/4" thickness in black UHMW, 8 1/2" long and 4" high. The 4" height will be 1" too deep for my 3" shaft on my horns but maybe I can find some 4 inchers somewhere (Andy and Bax was not much help). I would like it to stick up 1" higher than what I had previously since the oar stop would tend to rub on the top of the handrail a bit. If I can't find oar horns with a 4" shaft I will either notch the bottom so that I can get my cotter keeper into the shaft or just cut it off and use my 3" horns. Thanks again everybody.--Randy
Hey Corey,
I ran across these oar locks a while ago.http://regalsportingtechnologies.com/index.php/Regal-Oar-Locks.html
I have not tried them but they are 5" long. A little spendy but might be what you want.
They have a cool looking anchor release as well.
Mike

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