Things are moving along on this current project, with the outside now done. Upright now. The carriage bolts/cap nuts in the gunwale/frame structure, these are all plain Zinc, too..like most of the fasteners used by Hill. I've found them spinning in the gunwales, with the cap nuts (acorn) mostly rusted-on as I began on the inwale. I'll have to replace those now, back-filling the holes where the carriage end is supposed to be 'captured' by the outwale. I'll use epoxy and mill-fibers, with Dolphinite bedding compound after I re-finish the gunwales and frame-heads.
It's instructive to re-work a boat this age-to see what endured well and what didn't. I don't know how much the old builders actually saved, cost-cutting and using "Quick-N-Dirty" building/materials/assembly procedures, but I see, as I work over this older boat, the justification for good Stainless, bronze and lots of bedding compound, as is the norm in professional wooden boat building as I was taught.. Cutting corners back then certainly has showed up negatively now. It isn't so smart to scrimp, to pinch pennies on things like fasteners for what has to be minor (in the overall cost of the boat) savings.
If I simply ignored these corroded gunwale fasteners and varnished them up..It would probably look ok for a bit, but the 'slop' in the connections, the 'dry holes' through frame and gunwale "working" as my client rows and floats his boat in it's natural environment (water) that would soon cause more problems. The gunwale structure in a rowing boat takes lots of stress, and in a framed boat, the gunwales are arguably the most important structure.
Getting the carriage bolts out: I cut some big fat slots into the smooth head of the bolts, hold it from spinning with a large screwdriver and put my impact screw-gun on the acorn nut inboard. I used Simple Orange and a propane torch on some of them to bust loose the rust in the acorn nut. My 'wages' decline....
The frames and all the "furniture" inside are again to be refinished with Dura Tuff. I plan on oil finish for the sides and bottom, since they are quite age-darkened and a bit surface-checked. There is no viable way, economically, to make this boat look brand new, so we've budgeted enough to make it function 'as new' A link to my web albums with some more pics...below. You might have to cut and paste.
Don Hanson
Northshore...boats?
https://picasaweb.google.com/dhanson928/TurnItOver?authkey=Gv1sRgCJ...
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Its good to hear that the owner of an old boat is willing to pay to have it restored rather- than turn it into a planter for his wife or just get one of the fiberglass jobs that you never have to maintain. Looking at the quality of the PW- not a football that can be seen- why would a guy skimp on hardware is beyond me. But the builder was just trying to put food on the table so its understandable. Our summer place is on an island built in the early 1900's. All the materials were rowed over in dories. Part of the boat house was from a wrecked barge. (one son calls them "wooden tents") As a result of this any time I try to do repair work there are different sizes of lumber, nail types, hardware, etc it drives me nuts- but they had to make due with what was there.
I totally agree that cutting cost on hardware ,paint and fasteners is foolish economy. While it hurts to pay $20 for a box of silicon bronze screws rather than $9 for SS I still have a preference for the SB.
Good luck on the job- hope you don't go broke.
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