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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on May 21, 2013 at 7:44am

Russ:  Nothing wrong with a little nostalgia- I still use my fathers Delta table saw/jointer patented the year I was born- 1934.  Hopefully some of the experienced RR users will give you some good advice.  Absent that you might consider  installing reinforcements between the transom and the bottom.  These are called "knees" (nothing to do with knee locks as on a DB)  These braces are attached to the transom and also the bottom- screwed and glued.  The grain on these is very important if the job is to be sturdy.  This grain should follow the curve of the knee- think about how the tree trunk arches out into the root.  Some people dig out "stumps" and chainsaw out various sizes of knees.  I have done it years ago with a white oak that came down  behind my house.  Hard work but makes a perfect knee.  Spruce/pine should also be OK say 1 " to 2" thick and 10" to 12" up the transom/along the floor. 

Good Luck

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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on May 21, 2013 at 8:30am

Here is the Greg Tatman solution shown on his 14ft rowboat.  It shows the two pipes that are bolted through the transom and attached to the boat bottom. 

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Permalink Reply by AJ DeRosa on May 21, 2013 at 10:24am

My Ray Heater kit built Rapid Robert has a 3/4" transom that is supported by "knees" at the corners where the transom meets the shear rails( gunnels). This provides bombproof support for the 75lb 15 hp motor that I use. My motor is a long shaft that fits the cutout on the transom. If your outboard is a short shaft you will need to create a deep enough cutout to get the lower unit into the water.
I also use a Dolefin on the cavitation plate to increase performance.
This should be great rig to run on the Prineville Resevoir.
Good luck.

AJ

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Permalink Reply by Russ Tuter on May 24, 2013 at 4:56am

Thank You for the ideas, when I get it done, I'll post some pictures. 

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