RiverRunner

I decided to build this boat to use on tailwaters in the southeast.  I also am building it as a prelude to building a McKenzie.  I wanted a little more experience so that maybe, I can build a boat that will attempt to stand proud amidst some of the fine work here.  This is a little drifter called a RiverRunner designed by Jim Michalek.  I modified it slightly.  Mine is widened 2", and I substituted 1/2" plywood for the 1/4" bottom the plans called for.  I also eliminated the external hardwood chine logs.  I glassed the chines inside with 12 oz biaxial, and did the same for all the frame joints.  The bottom is glassed with 1708 inside and outside, the outside lapping 6" up the sides.  The outer sides are glassed with 10 oz woven fiberglass.

I won't post all the pics, but here are a few to get up to where I am now.

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Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on December 20, 2016 at 7:44pm

A few more

Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on December 20, 2016 at 7:51pm

Now some paint and epoxy/graphite on the bottom.

Permalink Reply by Ants Uiga on December 20, 2016 at 8:19pm
You certainly have done a nice job on your build. I have no experience with the design goals for Southeast waters. My initial guess would be the design is stable and draws a shallow draft.

I would be curios to know basic dimensions and hull weight. Is the boat used in flowing waters or still waters? How is it propelled - oars, pole, trolling motor or gas motor? How far so toy go from launch site? What is the projected payload in terms of people or gear?

Thanks,

Ants
Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on December 21, 2016 at 8:33am

The length is 15'9" - bottom width 34" - max beam 50".  It is designed to be drifted on moving rivers and streams.  The bottom is symmetrical on each end and flat in between.  The stern has a transom set at 15 degrees for use with a small outboard.  I will set it up very much like a driftboat.  It will have oar locks and a rowers seat just aft of center.  The bow and stern are both decked.  The rear deck can serve as a seat for a paddler to steer the boat instead of using oars.  There will be a forward seat for the person fishing from the bow.  I'm also going to build a removable knee brace for the bow.  Most of the tailwaters, rivers, and streams I fish do not have anything greater than MILD Class II water.  Mostly just shallow riffles and gravel bars with deeper holes between.  The outboard will only be used in situations where there is a need to travel back upstream.  The hull is not designed to plane, so low hp and slow speed would be the result when using the motor.  I have a 2.5hp outboard that weighs 30lbs and has a self contained fuel tank.

Permalink Reply by Greg Hall on January 1, 2017 at 7:28pm

For those who replied to my thread on the oar lock outriggers, this is the boat I am talking about. I guess I should have asked the question in this thread. Maybe that discussion could be taken up here.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on January 2, 2017 at 6:39am

I need that motor you have :) Ya I forgot what the inside looked like. So your not gonna run a inside rail from the front to back? Just to the walls you have for the decked ends? Theres a guy down the road here that builds boats. He doesnt scarf the sides and more, he just butts them and backs up the joints with a block of wood, kinda looks like what you have there. Then to that block of wood he mounts a aluminum bracket that extend up past the top rails that has the oarlock incorporated into it. I was trying to find a picture but I think I deleted it.

Maybe you should just try something like that to get some height and go with 6` oars. I have a 12` alum jon boat, its 3` across the bottom and I want to say maybe 6` oars and it works just fine. Its all covered up outside for the winter so I can measure them to be sure. (they might be 6`6"`)

Here they are up against my 8`6" oars

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