Is everyone attaching the rub strips with screws or can they be applied by one of the adhesive products like 3M 5200? I realize that 5200 would not be the choice for that application. What other product might work that is not as permenant as the 5200 or just suck it up and drill holes in those nice finished sides? Of course I am not in the water yet... the boat can be placed in the water without the rub strips, but trailer has taken longer than hoped for. It is painted and I need a couple of hours to connect the wiring. Then of course work gets in the way. Thanks Steve Sobba

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The rub strips are meant to be easily replaceable that is why they are screwed on, they would be anyway even if glued.

David Edwards
Don Hill Boats
Hello David, Ok, I will attach as per plans. The build has taken longer than planned... but rewardingly fun! Thanks Steve
We use brass ringshank nails at the frame locations. Easy on, easy off, no drilling, hlods well. Good luck, Roadkill
I used the ringnails at the frames and glued them on with thickened epoxy. not to much work. I would be much easier with the boat upside down I would think though...
Thanks Kirby and Jason, I like the idea of the nails. At the time I should have applied the rub strips,when the boat was upside down, there was forum talk of not using rub strips at all and I did not have enough lumber at the time to make them. I decided I wanted contrast to the meranti sides and purchased some soft maple and had it planned . I was told soft maple was about 30 % as dense as hard maple. Thanks again steve
Steve,
Be sure that the nail heads on the rub strip and any place below the waterline are sealed super good, and check them after the first couple floats... I ended up with some areas around a nail head where the varnish cracked slightly for whatever reason and a little moisture got in there... the wood got a little stained from the water (like a little black ring in a few places), so I had to sand it down, dry the areas out, and re-seal. Just a heads up - it was sort of a pain, and could have been easily prevented if I was paying a little closer attention when I varnished the rub strips. Good luck - let us know how it turns out.

Jason
Steve, I restored my Keith Steele driftboat in 1980. Because some neighborhood kids knocked some holes through the hull(above the rubbing strakes) I had to patch them with layers of 7oz. glass cloth and isophathalic resin. After I ground these down flush with the hull plywood, I realized I'd have to paint it rather than have the finish clear. Then I got the bright idea to remove the strakes , then reapply them, leaving them finished with varnish. But the strakes had been originally put on using copper boat nails, nailed from the outside then using a steel dolly on the inside, bending them over. These were a bitch to get off, but I got it done and then finished the outside of the hull. I then reapplied them with 3M silicone only and they are still there after all these years and literally hundreds of river trips all over Oregon and have never come off. I plan the re-restore this summer and leave the strakes on. Good luck.
Bronze Screws.

Paint the edges well or seal with epoxy. Otherwise they will drink alot.
Then install them and paint/varnish over them and the hull sides again.
No sealant or glue.
Thanks gentlemen for the further suggestions . I ended up the sat. after thanksgiving applying the rub strips with ss screws as per plans. I had 2 coats of epoxy and several coats of varnish... drilled pilot holes and coated the screws with 3M5200 hit every rib but the very last screw so will have to watch that site when able to get in the water. That sat. was the last 65 degree day...cold iced over waters and dealing with health issues have kept the maiden voyage in anticipation storage. Steve

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