Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Sawing Side Ribs
Ready to build my first set of ribs... sawing a 1x4 down from 3.5" on one end to 1.5" on the other end sounds real simple, until you do it.
There has to be an easy way... skil saw, table saw, band saw, jig saw? Sure would be nice to do it on my table saw, but the right angle might be hard to find.
What do you guys use?
Thanks
Views: 631
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on
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Use a jig on the table saw. You can do a search online for cutting tapers. Your jig will need to be just a little different angle for each of the frames so an adjustable jig is helpful if you aren't going to reproduce the boat.
Click here for one online solution.
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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on
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Rip the side angle on a straight board first. Cut the taper with a taper jig mouonted to your fence. Or tilt the blade, use the taper jig and rock it out all in one cut.
Good luck!
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Permalink Reply by Jerry Thompson on
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I plan to use a taper jig that I got at my local Woodcraft store http://www.woodcraft.com/Product/2003184/10615/Taper-Jig.aspx. "Wood River Taper Jig". It cost me about $20.00. They also have plans for home built jigs for about $7.00, but heck you can look at the picture and build your own.
By setting up the taper and beveling the blade, I should be able to cut them both in one fel swoop. If I use wider boards I think i can cut both sides with one set up. The end bevels I will cut with my Miter Chopsaw.
Jerry
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Permalink Reply by Stan Foy on
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My take on a quick taper jig for the tablesaw. Some scrap lumber and a couple toggle clamps. Pencil lines drawn at the distances from the blade for the taper. Just line up the marks on the pieces being cut with the two pencil lines and run through the blade.
In this case, line up the bottom on the 2-1/2" line - and the mark at the sheer on the 1-1/4" line - clamp and go.
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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on
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I just drew a line on the frame, ran it freehand through the table saw, clamped it in the workmate and hit the cut edge with one pass of the belt sander, done.
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Mike,
I hope you meant to say bandsaw instead of tablesaw. The thought of 'freehanding' anything on a tablesaw is enough to send chills down my spine.
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Table saw. I had to give up my big saw years ago and all I have now is a small 8" portable table saw that Ive had for 20+ yrs. You just have to Zen it and be as one with your saw, trust your keen eye and steady hand ;) I drew lines on curved, messed up rough sawn lumber and free handed them to get straight sides to work with too, took a couple passes but wheres theres a will, theres a way, as I was doing in this pic. I cut every pc of wood for my boat pretty much with this saw, a mitre saw, and any curves with a jig saw.
I did use a router table to half lap my frames
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Because I was half lapping, I had to start my taper 3.5" from the bottom so I still had a square on the bottom. You can just run your taper all the way, even easier. You could do it with just a circular saw, but then you need to hold the wood and the saw. With the little table saw just need to hold the wood
If your using plans and have the bevels for the outside of the frames, you could do that as these guys are talking about, and cut the taper and the bevel at the same time. I didnt have that so I just cut the tapers, then used a batten strip to figure out all my bevels and cut them by hand with a power hand planer after I had all my frames in place. ( I used strong back to build on though)
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Permalink Reply by dreu patterson on
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I too freehanded my tapers on a tablesaw.slow and easy.to get the exact angle of degree (when that time comes) I cut the angle on a piece of scrap on a mitre saw,then layed it edge down,running the table saw blade up as high as it would go to meet the scrap and adjusted the angle to match.
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