I have been checking out the plans for a 16' transomed doubled ender. I want to build one this summer. However, I only want a 14 foot boat. I intend to use the boat on some narrow rivers in Ohio and the two feet will make a difference.
My question is this, can I just use the plans and deduct say 15% from the measurements as I loft it or should I look for 14' plans?
I do realize that if I deduct from the lofting, I will have to figure all new bevels.
Stephan-
check out Ray river dories, he has a nice little rogue 14. It may be only availible as a kit though. Also Montana Boat builders has several smaller boat offerings. Keep in mind that most drift boat lengths are measured as the length of the gunnel and not the length overall. For example my boat is a 16' double ender but the actual length from stem to stern is something like 14'4". Hope this helps.
Brian
Yes, you can reduce your plans by using a common factor. It's unlikey that the bevel angles would change enough to make a difference because you will retain the proportionality of the boat. What will change is the bilge, or side panel cutouts. That shouldn't present a problem if you are building the boat around a mold-form. If, on the other hand, you are using free-form construction, then you'll need to re-calculate the side panels. I do that the old fahion way by a carving a plug to the half-breadth of the revised scaled set of plans, and the "lift" the side panel off of the plug. If you are unfamiliar with this technique, get hold of a copy of Boat Modeling with Dynamite Payson. Or, if you have access to, or have a friend with high-falootin', reliable marine software, you might achieve the same thing there. in fact, Randy and Sandy Dersham, hosts of this site, have that ability/capability.
I use a 16' DET on big rivers in PA (Allegheny, Youghiogheny, Delaware) and have been floating rivers as small as the Little J with the Trapper. The boat is in Rogers book and on his site.
a RR would be a great boat for our eastern rivers. go flatter, (less rocker) for these rivers without serious white water.
I wouldn't shorten the 16'. Are you mostly planning on fishing solo out of this boat? If so then just look for a shorter boat, or maybe even a pram. BUT if you ever want to take people with you the 16' boat will be much better. 16' sounds a lot bigger then it really is and like someone else pointed out its not 16' down the center anyways, more like 14'6 or so depending on how wide of a bottom you want on your boat.
I would have to disagree with Dave on less rocker. Rocker is good in big water like he said, but its also great for getting your boat to spin and turn easier. Instead off less rocker go for more bottom width instead. IMO 54" of bottom width and more rocker is ideal if you want to haul passengers.
OR, you can take a 16-footer, lop off both ends, use the same frames placements, and end up with a square-ended river pram. Harry Laagerstedt , an OSU Hort professor emeritus did that back in the mid-1960s. Rocker is maintained, there is enough capacity for two fishermen, and it remains a really decent white water boat, but small enough you could load it into the back of a full bed pickup, and light enough for one person with ample testerone to horse around on his own. Harry called the boat "Tubby." The bottom length was 8' and efficient to build. "Tubby" caught the eye of the famous dory man, John Gardener, and he referenced this boat in the July 1981 issue of the National Fisherman. Sandy and Randy, hosts of this site, have created their own version of "Tubby." Perhaps Randy can post a picture of their boat for you. I also think I have some photos of "Tubby" under construction at My Page.