Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Wood boat repair advice
I will post a picture tonight, but I just wanted to get this out there and test the heartbeat of this forum.
I have a tatman boat
Pretty much this exact kit.
I had a mishap the other day where I was floating under a low bridge, the water levels went up a few inches during the day and my boat ended up being dragged under the bridge backwards after not being able to fit going forward. Needless to say, I did some damage.
After slapping the underside of the bridge as we floated underneath, the bow stem cracked. The crack is about 8 inches long and goes directly down the middle of the stem.
I come to you guys for advice on how I should proceed to fix up my boat. I did not build this boat, so my knowledge of how everything is done is limited, but after looking at the bow stem it seems like the lynch pin of the front of the boat.
Replacing the bow stem looks somewhat difficult if not impossible without taking most of the boat apart. Is this a correct assumption? Should I be trying to put a band-aide on this wound or is it something I could fix with some elbow grease and still be able to float some more water this summer?
If it's fixable can someone please try to help me along the process on how I should go about making the repairs?
Views: 1029
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on
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If I've understood correctly and the split is top to bottom in the center of the stem then I recommend that you fill the split with epoxy. I would use a calk gun type of application like West Systems Six 10 or System Three Gel-Magic. The tube gun will allow you to shoot the epoxy into the split with some pressure.
Before your epoxy sets up (or pre-drill this part) drill through the stem from side to side in two or three places and insert a bolt. 1/4 is big enough. You can counter sink the head and nut of the bolt and then plug the hole for looks.
You should be able to do this in a weekend and be back on the water.
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Permalink Reply by Steve Jay on
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Randy,
Thanks for your thoughts. To clarify, the crack runs vertically on the bow stem, so yes top to bottom. It only runs 8 inches though so not completely top to bottom. Probably about 25% of the entire bow stem is cracked. It is mabye 3/4 of an inch wide gap at the top.
The pictures will speak 1000 words. Just need to take them. Will do that asap.
so you think it's more of a duct tape fix than a replacement?
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I would do the bolts and get on the water for the summer. Then this winter you can cut a new stem and replace it properly and not feel pressured for time. It will run fine with the bolts. The gap and the top should be filled will epoxy and then use the bolts to pull it together.
The stem is the foundation of building the boat as it comes together during construction; however, once all the frames are in, the stem can be removed without pressure. As you pull that joint between the stem and the side panel apart the wood will fail before any glue does. It is best if you can get the wood to fail on the stem side of the joint and not the plywood side of the joint. That will take a little time and some figuring out. You will have more patience if your not skipping fishing trips.
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Permalink Reply by Kelly Neu on
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I second that.
If the crack is wide you'd be able to inject a "glue mixture" (epoxy, wood flour, cotton fibers). That will hold a bit stronger than straight epoxy.
Duct tape would work for the summer too but make sure to dry things out after each trip or you may have a big repair/rot issue in the future.
...Just a crack. No biggie. I've done a whole lot worse to my boat!
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the duct tape was just a saying I guess. Was never planning on using actual duct tape. Mostly meant should I just make due or with a band-aid or give it the 100% fix.
Good to see that this forum is active. I will post photos in like 5 hours or so.
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is the wood flour and cotton fibers something I pick up at the store or ... is it like ripped up cotton balls and saw dust?
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You can use cotton balls and sawdust. It's not as good as buying additives from someone like Fiberglass Supply. click here to go to that page..
The two competitive products that I mentioned come with the thickeners already in them. Gel Magic from System Three or Six 10 from West Systems. You can buy a calk tube size of either with a mixing tip and pressure it right down into the split.
You can buy them from Jamestown Distributers. click here to go to that page.
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Sandy and I have one boat were we are testing insert nuts on the hand rails. We like them a lot because it allow us to cover the inside rail with a groove of veneer for a very clean look with nothing to get hung up on. The boat has only been on the water this summer so I don't have a report yet on if they will hold up as well.
It is a clean look but it is a harder repair if you break a rail.
I'd say to give them a try and let us know how it goes.
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Steve, I recommend that when you finish the fix you replace the stem cap with a nice piece of fir or mahogany that is 1/2 thick. It will cover the break, be just a little more support, and look really nice.
Also, you should drill and counter sink the bold and nut on each side of the stem and fill the counter sink hole with a plug or epoxy fillet like your other screw holes show here. It will be near invisible from the outside.
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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on
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"tis only a flesh wound."
Wood flour, (out of the belt sander bag), epoxy. Fill it high, then scrape it smooth when it is all set and done. Probably could get away without bolts, but it can't hurt. You could easily hide them/make them look like your nails on the outside plywood.
And yeah, replaces that UMHW strip of plastic with some wood!
Does the crack flex if you lean on it?
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