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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on February 22, 2009 at 7:56am

Hello Craig.
Yes, for this job we use System Three E-Z Fillet. You can read all about it by clicking on this link..

We use this fillet most of the time because it is much faster to mix than the chemistry set approach of putting extra additives in clear epoxy. It's easy to grab just the amount you need and it is a lightweight fillet that resists sagging.

When we run out of EZ-Fillet we will add wood flour to clear epoxy. It is best to also add a silica which helps keep the wet weight of the wood flour mix low. This will prevent much of the sagging that can happen when you are filling some deep areas of damage and working on the vertical sides of the boat. Without silica the fillet is just as strong of a bond but will likely add a little extra shop time to sand smooth the joint due to the bit of sag that will occur. Many people use the straight wood flour approach because there is are no extra products to buy. Make sure you mix enough wood flour to get a stiff peanut butter consistency. This method is just as strong and has been the standard for years. At our shop we find that the time savings of the premixed fillet and its anti-sag properties save us enough shop time to pay for the product.

I have been tempted before to use the quick drying fairing compounds for the type of job you are talking about. Some are made by West Systems or System3 but they can also be purchased at the local auto repair supply store. When testing the fast drying auto fairing compounds on my own boat I've had very poor results if the repair area is deep. These products are made to be applied very thin to fair flat surfaces. They work only when they are so thin in application that they are almost transparent. If they are put on thicker your job will look great for a couple of weeks then the fairing may crack under the paint if it was applied thickly in a single application.

I also recommend that you are not tempted by any product that has a short pot life. Usually the faster the dry time the more brittle the product. Under the chine is not a place for a brittle filler. This is the area that will be getting smacked around by rocks. So stick with the tried and true fillet methods and you can't go wrong.

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