Hi Robb, I think you could get all the hardware and drain supplies you need from West Marine. I originally bought some of it from Andy Hutchinson - who can be contacted on this site also. good luck with the construction!

Jim

Hey Robb,
A friend of yours (Seth Walker) contacted me about mayby doing some restorative work and decking on a boat he is looking at buying.
First, thank you very much for the recomendation.
Second, You have a Don Hill boat that you decked right? I think I met you at the show and your install looked real clean. I was wondering if it might be possible to look at that boat as I have not decked one yet.
Thank you,
Mike

Robb,

Sorry, I wish I could help, but I was basically going to re-invent the wheel so to speak. My plan so to speak is to cut out the rectangle hole raise up the deck 1/2'' or so, install a rubber gasket, build a lid and see if it is air tight. The one thing I do have is a lead on latches, http://www.mcmaster.com/#adjustable-draw-latches/=3xm2pu, there are all types of this site.
If you have any advice I'm all ears as I haven't cut any hole in my deck yet.

Jimmy

Robb,
I don't stay in touch with anyone up there any more. Most of the guys I worked with are either dead or retired. I check out Piscatorial Pursuits on the web from time to time. Thats about it.

Herb

Hey Robb, sorry for the delayed reply. Where are you at in the build? I really only have experience with one type of hatch design, and that is with combing around the hatch opening, and a raised lid sized to fit snugly around the combing. I use weatherstripping both on the lip of the hatch lid where it contacts the decking, and on the inside face of the lid where the combing contacts the lid. This seems to work as well as anything. They are attached with stainless piano hinges and southco draw latches which provide a very tight and positive latch.

Before I put the decking on the boat, I framed in the hatches and installed the combing. Then it was a matter of making puzzle-piece deck sections to fit in around the openings. Then frame the hatch lids to fit the combing, and trace the plywood tops to fit the framing.

In the flip test (a friends dory, not mine - but similar hatch design) the hatches took on some water, mainly the bow and stern hatches because they were under water. But for the most part the hatches worked well. I still pack most of my things in dry bags inside the dory, and strap everything to the floor.

No problem. I enjoy sharing what I have learned. But never jump to the conclusion that I know what I am talking about.

Hey Robb,
No pics of the new boat, I have lots of pics of previous boats if there is something you are looking for.
Mike

Robb,
I really went for a comfortable boat. Instead of emulating a Grand Canyon style, I built a boat more for Westwater, Deso, San Juan, & Cat trips. My foot well is 23 wide and 33 long spanning ribs 4 to 6.
My passenger bench seat spans ribs 6 to 7 and my passenger footwell has a mega span between ribs 7 to 9. I am still in the mad scientist phase but I have NRS,s massive center canoe bag which I attatch with four d-rings and pearlon between ribs 8 to 9 in bigger water.

Hey Robb,

Pretty cool you've been up there on the Copper. Thats some scary water sometimes. We were on record low flows this year so that took the edge off big time. I've been up there only 3-4 seasons now. -Pretty green.

We run Chitina to Cordova. Always get anxious for the Bremner blast zone.

How many days on the river were ya runnin?

Great to find a site for info and news. I see my old friend Brad Dimock on here with his run down the Canyon in a Galloway boat.

Thanks Robb, the same is in order for you, love your new boat.  The Briggs consists of the following: teak, mahogony, ash and corecell.  Wanted a boat with no ply in it.  Hope to see your new boat on the river somewhere.

 

Cheers,

Mark