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Comment by Scot Miller on June 30, 2013 at 11:10am

two other questions.. ant guesses to what kind of wood this boat is made of and can anyone identify the maker? I belive its from the late 80's

Comment by Scot Miller on June 30, 2013 at 11:08am

I have decided to embace the dark stains in the wood. I would rather fish then look perfect!

Comment by Scot Miller on June 30, 2013 at 11:07am

Comment by Scot Miller on June 30, 2013 at 11:07am

modest progress this weekend

 

Comment by Scot Miller on June 30, 2013 at 7:04am

Awesome Mark Stuberr, thank you so much for the advice and your time. 

its 107 here in sacramento today so i have to get busy before it gets too hot! 

Comment by Scot Miller on June 30, 2013 at 6:58am

Anyone want to argue just sand a bunch of the stuff, fuzz city. lol

Comment by Mark Stuberr on June 29, 2013 at 10:42pm

I may get my head bitten off here but i think for ease of use, durability, etc fiberglass is better than kevlar. Anyone want to argue just sand a bunch of the stuff, fuzz city. If you do want to try i think vacuum bagging is the way to go.

As for the application of the cloth, I use West Systems. It has worked for me over many projects not just boat building, there are many resin systems that work as well so look around and see whats available in your area. It helps to have a local suppler just in case you run out during a work related brain fart.

The first thing to do is get the surface to be coated real clean. I usually use denatured alcohol and a rag after using a tack cloth on the bare wood. next i run my have over the surface to feel for low spots and circle them using a sharpie (if your going to finish the boat bright, no paint, don't use a sharpie). Next i fill in all of the low spots old screw holes dents scratches and any other blemish with low density fairing compound. Let this set up per the manufactures recommendations.

Now you can fair the surface. Use a sanding board long board with sandpaper on it to bring down all the fairing compound you just put on. You may need to repeat this step a few times.

Once your satisfied that the surface is smooth, fair, and clean the application of cloth can begin.

I usually roll out the material onto the surface to be covered then trim the edges 2-3" bigger than what i'm covering. then i roll the piece of cloth up.

Next i use a small roller with a 1/4" foam applicator and a plywood pallet to roll out un-thickened resin onto the surface surface being coated. While this is still tacky i unroll the cloth onto the surface and begin to saturate in place on the surface. Use small batches of resin and work the cloth from one end to the other. I do the flat surface first than go back to the other end with a disposable brush (bristles cut off to 1/4") and dab the edges down. the brush is also good at working bubbles out of the cloth.

Ok, now you've got the cloth down and the resin has kicked off but not set, its time to hot coat the thing. I mix un-thickened resin and pull it over the area with a plastic epoxy squeegee first (if your doing multiple layers of cloth now is the time to put the next one on.) than go back and using a foam brush or a cut section of 1/4" roller pull more resin over the weave of the cloth. The goal here is to fill in all the little spaces in the cloth so when its sanded for paint your not sanding into all that structural cloth you just put on. When your done you should have a relatively reflective finish.

With all this cured (if using some epoxy systems) you will need to wash off the annealing blush.Dish soap and warm water. Now you can lightly sand and paint.

Whew that was a lot... Remember this is just how i do it.

Oh, the chine caps are the long (in your case black) strips of wood along the edge where the side of the boat meats the bottom.

Comment by Scot Miller on June 29, 2013 at 9:20pm

I also see some Kevlar/Carbon fiber composite fabric out there. any thoughts?

Comment by Scot Miller on June 29, 2013 at 9:15pm

ok so epoxy then roving then what weight cloth? fiberglass cloth? 

which resin?

I really could use step by step instruction with clear part ID. sorry, i'm just ignorant.

i Have one tray down to the bare wood and will test the epoxy adhesion sooner then later.

Thanks R Elder.

Scot

Comment by Richard Elder on June 29, 2013 at 7:33pm

Hey Scott,

Before you go crazy with paint remover, TEST!  Epoxy needs bare wood for best adhesion, no oil, no chemical residue.  you may be just fine, but test first.  Dig out all the localized rot and fill with epoxy loaded up with silica and sand fair before glassing.

For anybody doing a bottom repair, I'd suggest that adding a single layer of cloth is just kidding yourself.  I'd suggest an 18oz triax or 24 oz roving topped with cloth and finished with resin filled with silica and graphite.Takes about a gallon and a half of resin.  You can do the glass in one operation using slow hardner.  You need some meat for all the years you are going to drag your boat down the beach to launch where the Clackas never go and haul in those big fish!

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