Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Boat Surgery: 205 Mile Rapid
I've had a blast tearing apart the damaged areas of the boat. Looking at the shattered wood, figurin' and fussing. Here are some pics of the process.
Round one of peeling out the damaged wood. The hit was about 1/4 inch in front of the sternmost thwart. Good thing too! Otherwise this would be a picture of me sticking my head through the hole.
This is close to the final round of wood removal. The plywood in the thwart was shattered into little 2mmx2mm cubes. I left the sides of the thwart in place because they were undamaged and I didn't want to remove the undamaged fillets. (it was a pain to fit the patch though!)
Patches, glass and fillet.
Ready for primer. The purple is the fairing compound. Its Raka's phenolic micro balloons. I like it a little better than the microlite from West. Raka's seems to sand smoother with less air bubbles and slightly easier sanding as well, especially if it is well cured.
The color match is pretty good. Hopefully once I clean up the rest of the floor the lines will blend.
The final touch. The Zizumara has a "tramp stamp"! Just one of the many reminders to be humble.
Views: 301
Comment
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Comment by Kelly Neu on July 18, 2011 at 5:18pm
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Happy to give you my recipe:)
Maybe the best way would be to send me your email and I'll give you the details.
Randy- I'm curious about the Durabak. Is it similar to zylatone? WHat is it like to touch up?
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Comment by Randy Dersham on July 18, 2011 at 3:00pm
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Bryan, I'm a big fan of Durabak 18. It's a one part paint on that has a rubberized grit and is UV resistant.
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Comment by Bryan Torgerson on July 18, 2011 at 2:46pm
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I live in Moab and I have little kids that I take down the Colorado River all the time. I need a deck paint that is pretty bombproof. The kids getting in and out of the boat constantly with sand and grit in their sandles provides for alot of wear and tear. Yours looked pretty bombproof and I would like to know the brand you used. Your help would be greatly apprecited.
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Bryan, Its been a while so I cannot remember where I got the anti-skid compound but you can buy it at hardware, lumber or marine stores. Or you can use sand. Though sand has various particle sizes. The deck paint is a urethane. There are lots of options for deck paint. I think the main considerations are; 1. how much use will it get and 2. in what kind of environment. Big silty water with lots of passengers walking over your deck in hiking boots... go with something as bombproof as possible. Clear water rivers and no passengers you can use anything.
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Very helpful. Thanks. A couple more questions because I'm pretty new to all of this. They are as follows:
1. Where did you get your sand/anti-skid texture is it actually sand?
2. What kind of paint did you use on the floor? It looks really nice.
2. What kind of paint
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Bryan- P.S. Here are some photos of the process; from when I originally textured the decks.
http://kellyneu.blogspot.com/2010/02/day-6263-anti-skid.html
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Hi Bryan,
The way I did the anti-skid surface:
1. Fair the surface as you normally would then tape over areas you'd like to keep smooth.
2. Put down a thin epoxy glue and then coat with sand/anti-skid texture, etc...
3. Once dry, sweep off the excess texture granules and roll on a very thin layer of epoxy. This may be an extra step but on our commercial boats it increases the durability of the anti-skid texture.
4. When its 90% dry, peel off the tape, have a beer and enjoy your work!
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Nice work. Excellant repair. Just a quick question. How did you do the skid resistant surface on the floor?
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Those marks are a think of beauty and pride. Great job.
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Comment by Greg Hatten on February 8, 2011 at 8:16am
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Nice work!! Love the tramp stamp!!
GH
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