Mike`s Framed Drift Boat Build

Hi, started a build with no solid plans. Built my strongback, laying out the ribs, got the spacing but hoping someone could give me a idea what to go with for the height for the side ribs. I`m thinking 2 ft (or less) in the frt and tapering smaller to the transom? (but how much). Does that make sense to get 2 sides out of the 4` ply?

Also someone suggested I dado the ribs so I started doing that. I got 2 done and decided it was a bad idea when it comes time to attach the chine with no meat to screw too. Any thoughts?

Can anyone suggest how high to set the ribs for the rocker, I`m guessing starting in the center? Thanks much, Mike

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Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 4, 2015 at 7:32pm

I`ll spread some epoxy then. Ive got that on hand and everything has already got a couple coats of epoxy. Thats exactly what I meant with the chine cap. It will be wider than my chine rail, so I could hit the chine rail and the frames just above my rails. Maybe thats over doing it. Ive got the first side all screwed off except for the stem and transom.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 4, 2015 at 7:37pm

Mike,

Thickened epoxy!

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 4, 2015 at 7:42pm

Careful the chine cap is not too wide, you don't want the screws hitting to high on the inner chine cuz it might split. If you are doing a 1/2" bottom a 1-1/2" wide chine cap will put the screw 1/4" above the bottom of the chine (if the screws are in the middle of the chine cap). Lube the screws up with detergent if the inner chine is Oak.

Like Dorf said, thickened epoxy.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 4, 2015 at 7:30pm

Mike,

When I fastened the sides to the frames , stem and transom I used West's Six-10 thickened epoxy right out of the caulk tube.  Then I used a few screws to hold it in place.  They were later removed and replaced with wooden dowels.

The thickened Six-10 is easy to apply with the caulk tube.  Jamestown Distributers also has this, it's called TotalBoat Thixo Pro 2:1 Epoxy System. and is a little less costly than West's.

3M-5200 is the last stuff I'd use.  Just my two cent's worth.

Dorf

 

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 5, 2015 at 4:01pm

Well, too late on the sides to frames. I used the thickened epoxy (105/205/micro fibers) on the stem and transom. All I could do now is run a fillet along side each frame on the inside. What spacing might I use on the chine cap? I need to figure out where I can sink screws along the chine rails for the sides, bottom and chine cap.

Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on August 5, 2015 at 7:48pm

I use 4" on my caps. Most of the Tatmans that i have done work on have had spacing aroung 6" more or less (amazing how many people didn't really measure just kind of winged it). I wouldn't mess with the fillets on the frames, lots of people don't glue them at all.

Mike

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 8, 2015 at 12:59pm

Hope this boat works. It should be fine for these calm rivers we have. Pressing forward. I gouged my mahagony transom on one side with the Dremel tool with the cutting blade. I cried a little then got over it. Corners get wrapped in glass and then trim, should be fine.

I cut all the plywood edges and belt sanded everything to clean it up. Started with 300 screws,126 screws per side (still ran 31 short on one side into chine rail) still have enough for the bottom. Need to order a few hundred more for all the inside stuff. Gonna get some epoxy on the outside sides, all the plywood edges, and places I sanded.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 9, 2015 at 7:01pm

Mike,

Lookin real good!  Question, are you planning a cap on the stem to cover the open grain of the plywood?  It will offer protection too as the stem will be bounced against all the stuff you find in a river, logs, rocks beer bottles, etc.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 9, 2015 at 7:18pm

Thanks Dorf, yep, planning to trim out the back sides to cover the plywood,(and my messed up gouged spot on the transom) and along the bottom of transom to tie it in and cover the bottom plywood, chine strips to cover the bottom plywood edges and frt nose to cover the plywood in frt with a flat spot on the very frt. for a eyelet all with white oak.

Still so much I dont know how to deal with, but one step at a time I guess and hopefully it will all fall into place.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 10, 2015 at 4:30pm

Mike,

I put a small radius on the front piece, about 3/16" R,  You can leave it flat for 3"-4" where the eyelet is located.  I just like the smooth look of the radii on all the trim pieces.  All my trim pieces have a small radius  to knock off the sharp corners.

Just me two cents worth.

Boat is looking good, keep up the good work. 

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 9, 2015 at 7:09pm

Randy, question about glassing the bottom and sides. Raised the boat up a little to make it easier to work on the sides. Got the first coat of epoxy on the outside, the plywood edges and the chine and transom were I sanded. I`ll sand that all down and get another coat on it.

Found a post from 2009 from Randy showing 2 methods of glassing the bottom. Neither method showed how to deal with glassing the sides and the bottom. Best to do the sides first and cut it off at the bottom, then do the bottom and cut it off at the sides?

It seems like wrapping the bottom onto the sides under the chine would be better, but I didnt like the idea of rounding off the bottom corners to do that.

Wont be long now, I`ll be getting the bottom ready to go on in the next week.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on August 9, 2015 at 8:50pm
If your looking for a bright finish then glass the sides before you attach to the frames. This makes it much easier to get that flat perfict finish. Your design doesn't seem to have much rocker so they'll bend around no problem.

Alternatively if the sides are attached all ready then hang the glass over the sides you can just clamp it at the top since the bottom inst in the way. Once all wet out you can let the clamps go and touch up those areas. You'll have to do a few coats of neat epoxy to get it to fill and build thickness. Less is more as you'll get runs. Leave the glass hang on the bottom this will catch the goo that runs down.

When green you can trim flush.

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