Dorf's Wooden Drift Boat

I just found this Forum the past week and was pleased to see all the interesting discussions. I have previously (2006) built and launched a 16 ft. Peterborough Stripper from Tom Moore's original Canoecraft. The Bear Mountain Boats Forum was a wealth of information, as I had not built anything from wood that was expected to float, in water. The stripper was a lot of fun to build.

About a year later I discovered/purchased Roger Fletcher's book and decided to make a go of it and build a drift boat. Last April I laid out all the framing on poster board full scale. I am a retired Mfg. Engineer with 41 yrs in the Machine tool and Automotive Industry with lots of hrs. Hanging over a drafting table. After making the decision to build I spent many hours deciding materials, features etc.

I have 210 BF of White Ash from a couple of trees infected with the Emerald Ash Bore (big issue in Mid-Mich). So the framing is Ash (3/4" x 3.00"). I finished the last one in December. I just need to coat them with epoxy (been waiting for 60 degree temps). The frames are constructed using Half-lap joints. I discussed this in 2011 with Jim Watson of Gougeon Brothers and he offered their services in testing the joint strength (they have a MTS Tensile Test Machine w/ 100K Load Cell). I just received the results and test pieces a couple of weeks ago and will post them soon in this discussion. (I need to figure out how to post pictures here.)

The Stem blank is solid Ash. I just finished the transom a couple of weeks ago. It was made from African mahogany. The sides are going to be 1/4 x 7/8" WRC w/bead & cove. I have a couple of planks left over from the canoe. The sides will be encapsulated in 6 oz. glass and West System 105-207 Epoxy prior to being fastened to the frame. The bottom of the boat will be "cold molded" ash at 1/4 x 2 1/4" in two layers one oriented Fore Aft and the other 90 degrees to the first. Planning to add graphite to epoxy on the bottom.

Next work is to build a strong back and begin assembling the framing. Am looking foreword to your comments and assistance.

Thanks for being here.

phil w. (Dorf)

 

 

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Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 3, 2015 at 6:06am

Graphite mixed in epoxy doesn't make it any more durable in fact most put too much in and that makes it brittle.

You have to start with a good strong or hard epoxy to begin with then mix with a thickner that's really hard to sand.

Ground up fiberglass  works well but again its only going to be as durable as the epoxy your using.

I assume this is why linex is a popular choice.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 3, 2015 at 6:32am

I'd be worried that the bondo will eventually just crumble and let go.Hope you didn't use too much,good thing is that it shouldn't be too much work to grind out.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 4, 2015 at 8:48am

Tungsten,

Thanks for you feedback, it's appreciated!  I definitely put too much Graphite in the epoxy, thus the brittleness on the bottom surface.  So with an orbital sander and belt sander I am attempting to remove the top layer of epoxy and as much of the Bondo as I can.  

I am planning to add another layer of glass and 3-4 more coats of epoxy with 5 lb. glass powder in the last coating of Epoxy.  

I found a supplier in Chicago that sells Epoxy & Resins and related stuff.   Eager Polymers, they have a lot of information on the many types of fillers and such.  I had a lengthy discussion with them and we discussed fillers that would increase abrasion resistance.  Ground Quartz powder and Silica are "hard" minerals that'll do the job but at a cost of approx 50 lbs added weight to the boat.  For that reason I am willing to try the glass powder at a 5 lb. addition. 

For those of us who might be interested in this topic I recommend taking a look at the information on their website.    http://www.eagerpolymers.com/

Dorf

Permalink Reply by craig curtis on June 4, 2015 at 6:52pm

I would just use a heat gun and putty knife, once you get it started it will come off in a big sheet and leaves the wood pretty clean.

I used 20 oz fiberglass on my bottom with the graphite and about 5 coats of epoxy with graphite after the two base coats of just epoxy. I have had no issue with it other than being to slippery some times. any rocks I have hit bearly leave a mark, but they are all well rounded river rock on the Clackamas.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 4, 2015 at 7:01pm

Craig,

I considered the heat gun but I don't want to remove all the epoxy and glass.  I think it would be too touchy to control the amount of heat to just get the graphite stuff.  I just want to remove the epoxy with the graphite.  There's only two-three coats of graphite and at least 6 more w/o to bury the two layers of glass.  Thanks for the comment, though.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by craig curtis on June 4, 2015 at 7:05pm

oh I thought you were stripping it all to get rid of the bondo filler. I found some sandpaper for paint removal from Bosch, I think. they work great and don't load up like normal sandpaper. another option is a power planer, very fast removal so go slow. I found one at a pawn shop for 20, works great for doing stuff like that.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 4, 2015 at 7:32pm

Craig,

Thanks for the ideas.  I have some 80 grit sanding belts for my belt sander and they take it off pretty fast.  Still need to be carefu with it.  I have a 3 1/4" power planer.  It really takes it off, I just used it to trim down my oars and was real touchy.  

I think I'll take my time and be content with the sanders.  I don't have too much Bondo to deal with, as I just had two areas in the middle of the boat's bottom.  I have exposed about 1/4 of the Bondo and need to just remove it to get to the glass.

Dorf

Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 9, 2015 at 6:12am

Another option Phil is to cover the epoxy with a high solids epoxy paint,the ones I've tried are very durable,high gloss and uv stable.Also was a little cheaper then epoxy.

A couple of coats gives you the film thickness to take the bumps and scrapes and touches up easy.These paints are more flexable then neat epoxy so it won't chip when sliding over sharp rocks.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on December 17, 2015 at 6:53pm

Here's the boat ready for Winter storage.  Got to get ready for Winter's Ice Fishing Season.  Got a new flip up Ice shanty and need to start putting it together.  i made a few trips on the Lower AuSable River targeting Steelhead this Fall with not much success.  I had a lot of rowing time and she's everything I was looking for in a fishing boat.

For those needing a cover for your Custom Boat, I recommend 5 C's Covers out of Oregon.  They build each cover specifically to you boat's dimensions.  I raised my Oar Lock Bushing Plate 3" after the cover came and it still seals well around the perimeter, as seen in the Photo.

Merry Christmas to all,

Dorf

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 6, 2016 at 8:32pm
Here we are on the Muskegon River in our First Float back in June. We had three boats for our first float. Not a big group but we had a good time and found a few fish.
Attachments:
Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on August 7, 2016 at 8:33am

Hey Phil, not sure why you did the attach link. That sure is a nice boat, alot of man hours. Great picture too!!! When this weather cools down a little we need to get back out fishing :)

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on August 7, 2016 at 9:21am
Mike,
First time I attached pic with iPhone, that's the way it worked....
I'm waiting for things to cool off to, let's go fishing!

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