Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Fiberglass bottom install
I am finally ready to install my fiberglass bottom. I am planning on doing a Tatman style bottom with west system epoxy. I have a few questions.
I am assuming that it will go in this order.
1. Lay the glass and wet it out.
2. Add additional coats of epoxy.
3. Install chines fillet/fair to the rest of the bottom.
4. Put on final coat of epoxy with graphite epoxy filler.
Please correct me if this order is wrong.
How many total coats between the intitial wet out and the last graphite coat?
Should I let the epoxy set and get tacky then apply additional coat before cure or should I let it cure between each coat and deal with the blush problem? Does anyone have experience using West system on the bottom?
How much epoxy does it take to do the whole floor? Right now I have a little over a gallon of resin and hardener.
How far shoult we bring the glass down the sides of the boat? Do we put the taped edges on first and then install the big middle piece of glass or to it all at the same time? Is it ok if the middle piece overlaps our tape on the edges?
I know...lots of questions. I just want to get it right.
I am assuming that it will go in this order.
1. Lay the glass and wet it out.
2. Add additional coats of epoxy.
3. Install chines fillet/fair to the rest of the bottom.
4. Put on final coat of epoxy with graphite epoxy filler.
Please correct me if this order is wrong.
How many total coats between the intitial wet out and the last graphite coat?
Should I let the epoxy set and get tacky then apply additional coat before cure or should I let it cure between each coat and deal with the blush problem? Does anyone have experience using West system on the bottom?
How much epoxy does it take to do the whole floor? Right now I have a little over a gallon of resin and hardener.
How far shoult we bring the glass down the sides of the boat? Do we put the taped edges on first and then install the big middle piece of glass or to it all at the same time? Is it ok if the middle piece overlaps our tape on the edges?
I know...lots of questions. I just want to get it right.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Jason Knight on
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Here is how I did mine. Based on the instruction from the Tatman fellows.
Basically an adaptation of the "tack and tape method". I believe the main difference is in Dynamite's tack and tape method - the tape goes over the nails... someone chime in if I am mistaken on this.
1.) Make sure you have rounded the edge of the bottom of the boat where it meets the side to make a smooth transition in which to lay your glass tape. (You do not want to lay tape over a sharp chine edge... so you have to round that edge first.) At this point most framed boat guys will cringe at the thought of rounding your chine... but don't worry you get the sharp chine back later in the process.
2.) Tape and epoxy the rounded chine edge - the tape should only go up the side the width of the chine batten. (so it will be covered when the batten is applied later).
3.) Wet out the glass bottom so it overlaps the tape and you have the entire bottom covered.
4.) Apply subsequent coats while the previous layer is tacky or if you wait in between coats be sure to create a mechanical bond by clearing blush and lightly scratching the surface by sanding a bit.
5.) I mixed graphite powder in the last 3 coats of epoxy over the weave - just apply coats until the weave is filled and the bottom is smooth. The graphite powder will make the bottom black if you go this route.
6.) Attach your chine battens flush with the bottom of the boat - be sure to bed it well with some 5200 to ensure a tight seal - remember you want this "death paste" in there bc your nails that attach the batten will pass through your glass wrap... so no water can be allowed to get in there.
7.) Fill the gap between the hard edged batten and the bottom of the boat where you rounded the edge with a fillet of some sort. I used system 3 Easy Fillet - but you can make your own with wood flour and epoxy.
8.) Sand down any protruding fillet from this area to make a flush sharp angle on the chine edge.
9.) I then did one more flow coat over the entire bottom and the bottom edge of the chine batten.
That was pretty much it - and it is fresh in my mind bc I just did it a couple months ago.
The bottom is a rich black and really hard to the touch. I have yet to put it into service - but she will some some bumps and scrapes in 2 weeks.
Hope this helps!
Jason
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Oh and if you want a rich black color for the bottom - you will need to add graphite to the last few coats of epoxy... It will start sort of gray and get richer with subsequent coats. Good luck!
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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on
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Perfect Jason.
Make sure to pre-drill the nail holes for the chine batten so the fiberglass tape is not lifted from the side panel by the nail. If you use the tape over the edge and up to the height of the chine batten then you must nail. Screws will try to pull the fiberglass tape away from the plywood.
If you want to use screws for the batten I recommend that you put the tape and bottom fiberglass only 1/2 in up the side. Then when you attach the chine batten you can place the screws just above the tape line.
The purpose of putting the tape and bottom edge under the chine is to protect the edge of the fiberglass under the chine batten and fillet. It will take a lot of rock smackin' without knocking an edge loose.
Some people want to try to protect the chine batten by wrapping tape over the batten but that exposes the edge of the fiberglass joint. The rocks will bash up the fiberglass and could cause water incursion. It is best to keep that bottom glass edge tucked under the chine and protected by the fillet.
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And if you are using the bronze ring nails be sure to take your time - you can't drive them home like a roofing nail in a couple hits... it's more of a tapping them in patiently technique to avoid bending them at the last second. (not like that happened to me or anything... haha)
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