Hi everyone, I'm just getting started.  I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great).  I've decided to build a 17x54.  Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor.  I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem.  I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines.  I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective.  So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails?  It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail.  appreciate any insight you might have.

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Nah, I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

You still have the weave of the glass covered with epoxy matrix.  You just don't have the individual fibers completely filled.  It's probably still 90% as strong as fully wet out.

The composite design parameters of epoxy/wood/glass are not so tight that this is going to give you a critical failure.

thanks Shawn, appreciate the input. 

Dusty, if this helps your decision making, I left my spots.

I know that eventually I will damage the boat and have to make repairs. Repairs will be more noticeable than the damage spots.

However, if I were selling the boat, they would not have been acceptable. I would have sanded them off and replaced the fiberglass.

Decided to go w/ Durabak for the inside bottom.  Should I affix the bottom before coating w/ durabak?  I'm not coating frames or chines.

I think you could probably do that, I guess the 5200 between the frames and the bottom is just there to seal and not glue but it ends up doing both.  Id just do a quick test to make sure your prep process gets it to stick to the wood properly.  That being said ive got a spot on my shop floor where i spilled probably a cup of durabak.  I havent taken an angle grinder to it yet, but a hammer and chisel hasn't dented it, forget a scraper.

Btw I put a couple coats of epoxy on my floor and then durabak, dont know if its necessary but I had it so I used it

Yah, i've already got fiberglass, and two (threeish) coats of epoxy.  I just screwed up the epoxy and didn't wet the fiberglass in a spot, so now i want to cover it up.  Durabak sounds like it's pretty awesome.  But i see what you're saying, i'll prob durabak it after attaching the floor.  

Here's the outcome.  Decided to durabak "smooth" between the 3rd frame and the 10th frame.  leaving the front and back natural.  I think it's going to work out.

Finally preparing for fastening the floor.  had to straighten this frame:

looking good! Dont forget to round over your limber holes now before the bottom is on(if you are going to) every time I have to clean one out clogged with acorns or whatever I curse my past self for leaving them unrounded.

Thanks Bennett, you're approximately 12 hours too late on that helpful tip.

Haha well I always tell myself the next boat will be perfect, looking good.  At least you taped the frames, I spent hours scraping 5200 off

Bottom attached! Planing to use an electric planer to shave down the edge. then maybe a belt sander to bring it flush.


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