Wooden Boat People

By McKenzieDriftBoat.com

First build

Hi everyone, I'm just getting started. I've gathered all the tools, read Fletcher's book about 6 times (so great), and read quite a lot of these posts (also great). I've decided to build a 17x54. Went to the lumber dealer in town, and decided i'm definitely going to use the Hydrotek BS 1088 6mm for sides, and 12mm for floor. I'm going to use Mahogany for the Stem. I'm planning to use Port Orford Cedar for the frames, and was thinking i'd match that with White Oak for the rails/chines. I hope to have the boat for the rest of my life, and while i want it to be the most beautiful boat ever built, I truly want to use materials that will last and be effective. So, first question... Instead of White Oak, anyone ever use Port Orford for rails? It seems like the color would be similar to White Oak, but i wonder about durability as a rail. appreciate any insight you might have.

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Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on April 20, 2020 at 2:34pm

Nah, I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

You still have the weave of the glass covered with epoxy matrix. You just don't have the individual fibers completely filled. It's probably still 90% as strong as fully wet out.

The composite design parameters of epoxy/wood/glass are not so tight that this is going to give you a critical failure.

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Permalink Reply by Dusty on April 20, 2020 at 2:36pm

thanks Shawn, appreciate the input.

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Permalink Reply by Shawn Baker on April 19, 2020 at 9:27am

Dusty, if this helps your decision making, I left my spots.

I know that eventually I will damage the boat and have to make repairs. Repairs will be more noticeable than the damage spots.

However, if I were selling the boat, they would not have been acceptable. I would have sanded them off and replaced the fiberglass.

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Permalink Reply by Dusty on April 24, 2020 at 4:20pm

Decided to go w/ Durabak for the inside bottom. Should I affix the bottom before coating w/ durabak? I'm not coating frames or chines.

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Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 24, 2020 at 6:46pm

I think you could probably do that, I guess the 5200 between the frames and the bottom is just there to seal and not glue but it ends up doing both. Id just do a quick test to make sure your prep process gets it to stick to the wood properly. That being said ive got a spot on my shop floor where i spilled probably a cup of durabak. I havent taken an angle grinder to it yet, but a hammer and chisel hasn't dented it, forget a scraper.

Btw I put a couple coats of epoxy on my floor and then durabak, dont know if its necessary but I had it so I used it

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Permalink Reply by Dusty on April 24, 2020 at 9:50pm

Yah, i've already got fiberglass, and two (threeish) coats of epoxy. I just screwed up the epoxy and didn't wet the fiberglass in a spot, so now i want to cover it up. Durabak sounds like it's pretty awesome. But i see what you're saying, i'll prob durabak it after attaching the floor.

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Permalink Reply by Dusty on June 4, 2020 at 9:08am

Here's the outcome. Decided to durabak "smooth" between the 3rd frame and the 10th frame. leaving the front and back natural. I think it's going to work out.

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Permalink Reply by Dusty on June 4, 2020 at 9:10am

Finally preparing for fastening the floor. had to straighten this frame:

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Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on June 9, 2020 at 7:28pm

looking good! Dont forget to round over your limber holes now before the bottom is on(if you are going to) every time I have to clean one out clogged with acorns or whatever I curse my past self for leaving them unrounded.