Just ordered some brightside paint thanks to some advice from members. The boat is going in my garage tonight and the sanding begins. I have heard some mixed reviews on what the best bottom coating for wooden drift boats is. Anyone have opinions on bottom coatings? I am thinking Line-X because of the durability. I guess UMHW is good to and they have tape sheets or something like that?
Any advice or opinions would be greatly appreciated.

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I am using epoxy & graphite - mine is also a S&G so it seems better suited. The rib boats may be better suited to the UMHW. Sure seems to be mixed opinions on it though.
For a drift boat why put anything on the bottom other then epoxy/glass?

My boat has epoxy mixed with graphite powder. When you need to make a bottom repair sanding that black junk is no fun. My boats from now on will only use glass/epoxy. The sun never gets on the bottom so the epoxy needs no UV protection. I plan on doing some tests to see if the graphite powder really make the bottom more slick. I will drag a 1 foot square test piece over a rough surface and see how much pulling power it takes to brake it loose from a resting position.

if you crack the bottom with Line-X it will need to be scraped off for an epoxy repair. Boat bottoms smack rocks so it pays to keep it simple and keep the repair options simple as well.

I just started a new 16 footer. All my boats from this point on will no longer use plywood on the bottom. For bottoms I will be using plascore polypropylene honeycomb covered with glass or kevlar. The side will stay 1/4 inch plywood. 3/4 inch plascore in 5 X 10 foot sheets are around 90 a sheet.

I know this is a wood boat forum but honeycomb is an option.

As for paint,,, I have used petit easypoxy and interlux 2 part for walk on decks.
I will be interested to see how the results come out. Skipping the graphite would be nice but I'm betting you are going to find it hangs up less on rocks. Could be wrong but I am hoping that is true since I just went to a bunch of trouble to put it on. Should have the boat in the water in a couple weeks or less (I'm counting the days) so I will let you know what I think after my first close encounter of the rock kind.
At Tatman Boats we give our customer the option of a fiberglass cloth bottom or UHMW. The UHMW is the most slick of all boat bottoms and is tough; however, in more extreme climates where a temperature range in a day might run from below freezing in the morning to 60 or more in an afternoon the material will expand and contract. In some cases this can loosen screws.

We use 20oz triaxel cloth on our shop boats and add graphite in the last two flow coats. Why, because the black bottom looks great. Also to expose the graphite you should block sand in the stem to transom direction with 80 grit. Once a year, flip that boat and block sand again. If the dings and gouges are too deep sand aggressively with 60 grit clean well and apply another coat with graphite. Let dry, then block sand again with 80 grit.

Is there a big difference between epoxy only and graphite? No too likely it is noticeable on the river but the maintenance is the same and I like the color.
That's why I faithfully read this and Sandy's forum - I didn't know about the sanding part. I have the two flow coats on and thought that part was ready for the river, now I know different. I appreciate the information and it will save me a bunch of wondering. Only thing is it adds a few more hours on to my time before the boat is in the water. I have been spending so much time working on the boat that my wife is convinced I left her but forgot to tell her. I hope using the boat is as fun as building.
I chose UHMW for the bottom of my boat and I'm a big fan. It works well on the rivers I fish, which are sometimes pretty skinny. Whether sliding over a gravel bar or sliding down a very "crude" boat ramp - having that tough plastic on the bottom gives me a little extra insurance for the bottom. It's "tough".
It does have a pretty "violent" reaction to hot temperatures and expands quickly, which loosens screws and causes maintenance headaches... not much of a problem in the moderate climate of the Willamette Valley - but I've heard it is a BIG problem east of the Cascades and not the "bottom of choice".
(Here's a good example of "impromptu boat ramps" that are sometimes required when chasing winter steelhead)
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Robert,

I have an old 16' Tatman and I have a Line-X bottom. Here is my reasoning. First off this boat is 25 + years old. The wood on the boat is in great condition, however it is still 25 years old. Second, I am refinishing this boat now probably for the last time, my next next boat project is to build a new one. So, I wanted this boat to be as water tight as possible for as long as possible. It has been as tight as a drum every since I put the stuff on. The only water that comes in is from getting in and out of the boat or from my Lab, Cub. The Line-X weighs about .7 pounds per square foot so I am sure it adds the most weight out off all the options. I have only had the bottom on for one summer., but I had the boat on the South Fork of the Snake about 30 times last year and I have absolutely no signs of any ware and tear. Its really kind of bizarre, I found my share of gravel bars and the like.

I understand all of the arguments for the UMHW and epoxy/glass and I think they are all valid. I am sure there are folks that consider the Line-X option a wood boat builder's abomination, oh well. I am not sure what I will use when I build my new boat in a few years, for now though, I am very happy with the Line-X.

Jesse
Robert,

One other bottom choice... I ran into a couple of folks last year on the South Fork who use Honey Comb Kevlar. They got the skinny from these guys. I felt the bottom of one of the boats and it was like glass. Anyway check it out.

Jesse

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