Hi Guys

Im starting back on my build of a Don Hill 16' drift boat I'm thinking of painting the sides black since Im not liking the color after i had applied West systems Epoxy on them I think it would be an perfect contrast with the natural look of the wooden ribs and battens since it has a golden honey look to them after sealing them with West Systems epoxy. So my question is what type of paint I'm thinking of a two part polyurethane like Epifanes but can i use a topside paint since i won't have it in the water but maybe a couple of times a year or can below the water have just as good of color and shine as above paint will 

any help here is appreciated

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Those are the parts I used for the anchor. Ive seen the jam cleat mounted through the side of the boat, but I didnt want anything through the sides ply so I made a block (cherry) and mounted that cleat/pulley/bracket to it.

Not the best pic, that ratchet strap was laying there. No problems with the rope getting tangled, most often I`m in less than 10` of water so not using alot of rope anyway. Tracy puts the parts into a package deal (its not cheap) and it works great.

I went with this setup cause I will be putting a small motor on the boat.

The wood in the center of tha rear seat is walnut. I did it to kinda match the transom scheme, walnut with white oak stripes/mahogany/white oak. I had built the transom first cause I was gonna use mahogany plywood but when I went to buy it I couldnt get it so it messed up my entire plan. I decided to use the benches in the same woods instead.

On a credit note, I got the idea for seat benches from Steve Putnam, a member here. They are working out great for my fishing boat. Stows alot of gear.

its a beautiful boat excellent craftsmanship gives me some good ideas for storage

Dorf,

How well are your oars balanced?  I purchased a set of 8'6" ones for my  boat and I find them too long and underweight at the grips.  It doesn't make for particularly easy operation.  I'm considering buying grips, but I'd be better off getting another set.  Pity since they aren't cheap.  Perhaps I'll build a pair....

James, thanks. Its not really all that but thanks.I got tons of ideas off this forum, so I like that I can give a few ideas here and there even though I didnt build a white water boat.

Mike, your boat is smaller like mine, and mine is not that wide. Maybe less than yours. I went with 8`6" also and started with 2" shafts. With so much sticken out mine were really heavy so I thinned out the shafts between the wraps and the blades to 1 1/2" and it really helped, but I still feel like 8 ft would be even better.

The other thing I did was re-wrapped my rope a little farther toward the blade than I had started with. That made it so I could pull the oars in farther over lapping them in my lap and it made time off rowing with no weight on the oars nice.

I couldnt afford to buy oars so making them was my only option, and with a little help from Dorf, its pretty easy to do.

I put grips on mine and I really like them. The other thing was I put the rope inside the grips so I can index them in my hands without even looking. I do like that too.

Mike Rossi,
My oars are ash and were too heavy, 8.2 lbs. I reduced the shaft below the wraps to the blade and thinned the blade some. The new weight is 6.8 lbs. The balance point, reworked oars is 55" from tip of blade. It was 49.125" prior to rework. The oars are 103.625 OAL. The handle is 6" long. I added an additional piece to the handle to orient the handle to the blade. I don't need to look at the blade to see how it is oriented.
They are not perfectly balanced but they work fine for me.
Hope this helps. I have drawings of my design if your interested.
Phil W.

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