Screws through Fiberglass

Is it ok to drill through and send screws through fiberglass? I am going to send screws through the side pannels to suport decking on the inside and I was origionally going to try to mount all screws then flip the boat back over to fiverglass over all screw heads. I feel like this would be more durable, but then I could not easily get to the screws again. So now im thinking I will fiberglass first then screw through the hull, applying 1500 to all holes. Whats everyones opinion on doing this? Is one way a much better idea? Seems like fiberglassing first will be easier.

 

OR should I fiberglass before even assembiling the hull while the boards are flat?

 

Thanks as always. Plywood just got in!!!

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Permalink Reply by Jordan Davis on March 1, 2011 at 9:27am

Wow, that's a good question as I am looking at the same issue.  I will be glassing, filling, and painting the sides. Turning the boat more than once wasn't something I felt like doing (I'm sure we're in the same boat, no pun intended).

 

This thought brings the question though..are you building stitch and glue or ply on frame?  If you are building ply on frame then all of your seats would/could attach to frames.  The fly deck would be the only thing that would need fasteners applied through the hull, and in that case I would advise using Si Bronze ring shank nails.

 

I guess your question opens up a lot more questions, like are you building a drifter or a decked drifter...?  Hmmm, I love this stuff!

Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on March 1, 2011 at 9:34am
So im building a framed boat, and for the purpose of the disscussion lets say is a decked drifter (semi decked really, but more then the typical drift boat so Ill need to screw through the hull in many places like you would for the casting deck).
Permalink Reply by Jordan Davis on March 1, 2011 at 12:25pm

Every time you force a screw through a glassed piece of ply the threads start to seperate the glass layers from the ply, creating the potential for water to get trapped between the layers and, well, you can imagine the possibilities from there...

 

I would definitely use ring shanks which are readily available through JT Distributors.  If you are worried about them being enough fastener, trust me, they will be.  Just try to pull one out after you've stuck it through your material. Not Gunna Happen.  Anywhere that you may want better fastening, use epoxy or Sikabond.  You can't go wrong!

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on March 1, 2011 at 1:02pm
Jordan, this is great advice.  Also remember to allow the epoxy and glass to be completely cured before you attach fasteners.  Also, predrill with the appropriate size pilot hole for the nail.  This insures that driving the nail does not separate the glass from the wood.
Permalink Reply by Kevin C. on March 1, 2011 at 1:01pm
not quite sure why you wouldn't attach your decks to the interior frames but seems to me it would be easier to send your fasteners through your hull to attach whatever you've got going on and fiberglass the side after that ,as well as doing the bottom fiberglass while its upside down and the paint job on the sides.Once your fasteners are thru the sides there is no reason to need to get to them.If you do go thru fiberglass with a fastener simply fair over the head with thickened,let cure then scrape smooth with a little heat and your fastener is sealed. 
Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on March 1, 2011 at 4:13pm
So its looking like fiberglassing after. Is there an issue with epoxy running down the sides when fiberglassing or coating with epoxy while the boat is upside down? Should you tip the boat on the side so you get as flat a serfice as possible, or is epoxy running not an issue?
Permalink Reply by Kevin C. on March 1, 2011 at 5:31pm
Ben, no need to tip the boat .Wet out the wood with epoxy,roll on your glass from one end to the other then pour small batches onto the top of the fabric and spread into the fabric with a plastic 4" putty knife until the cloth is saturated but not overloaded .Work the epoxy into the fabric with the knife  and "squeegie" out all the excess.Wait till it has "gone off",4 or 5 hours depending the room and surface temp. and start your flow coat using the same technique but following the putty knife with a foam roller making sure you spin the roller every other pass to even the coat.Remember,4 light coats not 2 thick coats...just like dressing for winter activities...
Permalink Reply by Eric Loudenslager on March 1, 2011 at 6:21pm

You may want to check Ukulady's blog on her decked dory to see how she fastened the decks and bulkheads.  Also you may want to post a question for Larry at Montana River Boats.  He has built a decked dory stitch and glue.

 

The question I have is do you want to use screws through the side panel to support a deck?  How are the edges of the decking going going to be sealed.  Typically in s&g we screw through the side panel to hold interior support/decks etc that are being epoxied to the interior of the side panel.  Once the epoxy has cured you remove the screws and fill the holes with thickened epoxy.  This approach may work for your decked dory.

Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on March 1, 2011 at 6:50pm
I was planning on using the screws to attach the deck supports then use 1500 to seal the decking. I figure since im not doing a s&g I will just leave the screws and epoxy over them. Im only glassing and epoxying on the outside and staining and oiling on the inside so the wood will be able to "breath" if water gets into the wood.
Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on March 1, 2011 at 7:33pm

Ben, Sounds like you are building similar to how I did it with a framed boat:

http://www.woodenboatpeople.com/profiles/blogs/ta-dah-custom-18-x-5...

Try to do all your outside hull work "after" the interior, especially if you are experimenting with deck framing and such, you are bound to drill a hole in the outside of the hull in the wrong spot and need to fill it later. Eric and Kevin have good advice as how to fill the screw holes later and go easy on the resin show. I used screws but if you use ring nails be sure to clamp your interior deck support (assuming it is some sort of 3/4 x 1 inch material) between the ribs so they contour and compress up against the hull. Screws do this naturally, I suspect nails do not.

 

Post Pictures!!!! Cheers, Robb

Permalink Reply by Rod Hughes on March 2, 2011 at 6:07am
If you use screws make sure the are brass or hot dipped galvanized same with any nails there is also plastic nails on the market that work real well. stainless can be used but you cant epoxy over them they need to breath. if your do put screws make sure you put a sealer in the holes so that you reseal the wood. water will find its way in sooner or latter
Permalink Reply by Ben Kittell on March 2, 2011 at 7:07am
Will stainless screws work for epoxying over if I am then leaving the interior oiled so it can breath?

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