I am new to the boat building/maintenance world. I have owned my boat for a little over two years and I'll be starting some needed maintenance work very soon. I am wondering what finishes people like?

Here is what I am looking at:

- Z-Spar Flagship
- Epifanes gloss clear varnish
- Bristol

Anyone have a preference? Pros or cons?

Has anyone used Bristol?
I talked to Sandy about using Bristol, I like the idea of quick dry time and no sanding between coats (not that I'm lazy, just strapped for time usually) and that it withstands the elements nicely...but I've read some bad reviews.

I appreciate any suggestions and advice.

Brent

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Hey Brent,
I have used;
Duratough-Hated it way too thin for me.
Helmsman spar urethane-It actually was very good for the price.
Man-o-war spar varnish-excellent but not sure if you can get it any more.
Varathane spar urethane-O.K. but I probably wouldn't use it again.
Z-Spar Flagship-My favorite traditional Varnish. I love this stuff.
System three spar urethane (the cheaper one part not the high end two part) A very close second to Z-Spar. It goes on more like traditional varnish than the other urethanes I have tried and has a similar traditional amber look plus I like the added durability of urethane.
If you have a VERY flat surface you really only need to scuff the varnish between coats. I do the roll and tip with a foam roller and a foam brush.
Hope this helps.
Mike
http://www.bakerwooddriftboats.com/
I've used McCloskys Man-O war on a boat and use it on bamboo fly rods still. Ok for boats, fantastic for rods.
I prefer Z-Spar Captains Varnish on boats these days. Price is good, and goes on nicely. builds a fine traditional amber finish.

I like the amber varnishes over the vodka clear stuff.
Here's another vote for Z Spar Flagship. (cannot comment on the Bristol-haven't used it)
I agree with Dave - an amber finish varnish is nice and gets richer with additional coats.

And since they are a site sponsor - here is a link to good prices on the gallon.

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid...
Brent, i will have to agree with Jason about the z-spar but have used the man-o-war and it does have great gloss to it which is important to reflect (and give you good sunburn in the summer time) but it does not have the same uv prottection as the z-spar, i would pay the extra money for the z-spar, the finish will last much longer
Bristol is a far superior product to varnish. It has a much longer life, more UV protection, and is tough as nails. It is a professional finish that is two part and the cross link has to be measured very carefully. As a two part product it is more susceptible to the cold.

It is easy to apply if you use a confident technique and do not try to "paint" it on. We do a slow roll with a roller and then tip it with a brush and then DON'T TOUCH IT. The key is to lay it down once as even as possible and then don't mess with it. Do three or four coats with that techniqie to build up. Then let it dry, scrape it smooth, and apply a thin finish coat.

Most bad reviews about Bristol come from improper mix, or application. It is not forgiving but it is great stuff. You will need to light sand and reapply about every three or four years for a drift boat. Some ads for Bristol claim 10 years. I think that is pretty bold. It is also high priced so when users have trouble they tend to be vocal.

Varnish should have a light sand and reapply a coat once a year. The UV light will break down the outside surface of the varnish. Simply sand it off and re-apply each year and you will always be looking great and have super UV protection. We are Z-Spar fans.
Thanks for everyones input, I appreciate it!

Randy, how far will a gallon of Bristol go...with three or four coats could I get the outside of my boat done?
One gallon will take care of you for multiple coats on the outside. Your process determines how many coats you get. I forgot to say that if your boat is already varnished it is best, or at least more safe, to stay with the original finish.

As Lawrence points out, a high quality UV varnish has been used for years with great results and it is less expensive.
Thanks, I was wondering if the existing varnish would be compatible with Bristol, I guess that narrows it down to Z-spar.

Thanks Randy!
have done 4 canoes,1 Driftboat, 1 peapod,1 skiff- all with Flagship- good price good results
I have used everything but Bristol. My preference is Epifanes. My friend Nils Eriksson of Bend got me started on this varnish about 20 years ago. It is very full bodied so it takes a little doctoring to use. I think because of it's body it gives more protection and lasts a little longer, maybe. The varnish has tung oil in it and a lot of the other varnishes do not. I don't care for polyurathane varnish because it is too hard for plywood, it does not have elasticity.

I give a tumbs up to Epifanes single part paints as well. All can be purchased reasonably from Hamilton Marine in Maine. Epifanes has a big selection of paint colors.

Ray
Thanks Ray, you bring up a very good point. You should not put Bristol on the plywood sides of the boat before the boat is constructed. We soak coat with epoxy to bind the fibers of the plywood and help prevent damage during the build. Bristol is our final UV surface after the boat is in shape and sanded.

If you are going to pre-finish your side panels varnish is a better choice.

We have a boat here at the shop that we built with the intent of abusing. It has set outside in the weather for the last three years. The Bristol has held up much better than I ever expected.

On a polar bear run January 2nd the abuse got way out of hand. In high water I got into a six or seven foot spillover and managed to get throw out of the boat. That is a long story that I'll fess up to in a new thread tonight, but my point is there should be some interesting things to learn from inspection of the carnage. How the Bristol was affected might be one of them.

Ray, I would love to have you chime in with your observations about construction technique etc. This boat had a bottom on it that you taught me to do, the 20oz tri-axel cloth/epoxy. It is interesting how good of shape that bottom is in.
Looking forward to hearing your story Randy. I thought only us rafters swam on winter runs, hope you had your drysuit on;)

Mike

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