Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Introduction and questions
Hi to all members, I am new to Wooden Boat People experience-although I have enjoyed reading many of your comments over the years. Using the Roger Fletcher book as a guide with kind help for Randy and Sandy, I enjoyed building my first drift boat (14' Woody Hindeman Double Ender) three years ago. The boat is very fun to use, but I really like building as much as paddling. Four strip canoes later the disease of building boats is taking hold much as it has other family members. If you read this Uncle Kenny that includes you (built a 40 Hershoff Buzzards Bay take off in his shop in St. Ignatious Mt).
Alot of my river time is on the Flathead river, its three forks, Clarkfork, Missouri, the Elk ect. As a novice builder of boats I always find myself wanting to ask about materials and specific methods, to any of you who are willing to advise it is greatly appreciated.
Having studied the two basic methods S&G and Framed (built a framed boat), I find myself drawn to a hybred of sorts. I see a frameless design with steam bent 4/4 or 5/4 white oak int and ext chines, and steam bent white oak rails, oak or larch stems. Wanting to stay out of the Epoxy/Industrial Complex, and with a quest for simplcity, I would like to use Western Larch Marine Ply, made and scarfed to 16' at Plum Creek a couple miles away. I want to use a traditional oil finish on hard wood and bottom, with sacrifical 1/4"ply on bottom screwed to 5/8 seven ply, bottom and 5/4 interior chines. Oil based paint for interior.
Questions I have has this type of boat been built by anyone. I understand the framing concept as that is what I did in the last boat. I am trying to make this one more usable, easier to clean and take care of. My goal is to have a very simple, clasic lined boat with minimal interior bulk heads ect. I see a double cross brace for rowers seat, a rear transom platform and fly line deck/knee brace as the only cross support. Any comments as to this method would be greatly apreciated. Doug Mikkelsen
Views: 187
Comment
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Comment by Rick Newman on February 28, 2012 at 8:27pm
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Doug, I should have said a strongback and shaped forms to develop the shape of your hull. How do you plan to develop the shape? Will you use the Woddie Hindeman plans or design for your hull shape?
Good Luck,
Rick Newman
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doug, I'll bite. I understand your desires but have questions. Will you be building a strongback to form the boat's shape. If not what are your plans? How do you plan to control the steam-bent shape of the chines? How will you fasten the chines in place and keep them from moving when in the boat? I could presume that you will be using screws or ring shank nails. Will the bottom be fastened to the chines only? I appreciate that you have chosen a stiffer than normal piece of plywood which should add considerable stiffness to the bottom.
What are you sealing the bottom to the chines sections with? At the rails or gunwales gunnels or whatever you choose to call them how are you fastening them? Are you constructing the boat with consideration for eventual removal of outer chine logs if they become damaged? Have you considered placing a knee or similar shaped or carved pieces at the top of the bow stem? It would seem that a piece there could serve to add stiffness and as Don Hanson once suggested pass the stress of a hit to the side of the boat to the rest of the structure.
What is your plan for attaching the cross members to the sides of the boat? Will you connect a piece from the inner chine log to the inner gunnel with a lap joint, mortise and tenon or something similar or are you going to utilize bolts through the hull?
Will this boat also be a double ender? If not what are you doing for a transom and how do you plan to join the chines and gunnels to the transom?
Are you planning on using Resorcinol or something similar for glue?
Happy boat building to you!
Rick Newman
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