Comment

Comment by Tom Thompson on February 5, 2014 at 10:20am

Mike,

I've had the boat in the water only a few times but the wetlander seems to be holding up well. It sure is slick, I'll give it that. So far only a few scuffy looking places on it, no scratches through. I would use it again.

Comment by Mike Baker on February 5, 2014 at 9:02am

Hey Tom,

I was playing on the interweb and found this post. I am wondering how the wetlander product has held up. It sounds like the perfect bottom coating. is it or is it too good to be true?

Thanx

Mike

Comment by Tom Thompson on January 9, 2013 at 12:39pm

Thanks, Guys, each of you, for your input.  Lots of sound advice.

Chris, I did take your advice and ran that plastic proud to the bottom, and I feel good about that.

Phillip, I did go to Harbour Freight and get that same set of tapered drills.  Exactly what I needed!

Lawrence, thanks for your input and confirmation that an oversized hole was in order.  I did end up using 5200, because I believe that is what was originally used as a bedding compound for the screws trough the original plastic, and I was able to get them out.  Nothing really sticks to that UHMW plastic, I think that's the key.

Anyway,this whole deal is an experiment, so we'll see how she goes.  After the boat has sat unattended for a while (I finished her up in late Sept. or early Oct.), an examination makes me optimistic as to how she'll wear.  Anyone in Salt Lake or near the Green River want to go?  I need a partner....that is, if there is enough water in that river to drift.  I believe I saw 830 cfs.  Seems awful little.  Am i wrong?

Thanks everyone else who has commented at one time or another as well.

Comment by chris towles on September 18, 2012 at 8:46pm

Make sure to run those strips proud of the bottom edge. This will cover the joint of where the Kevlar meets the edge of the chine. Most times when you glass this way running the fabric to the edge it will quickly start to delaminate the layer of fabric. Happened on my buddies old tatman. The chine batten usually covers this joint. With your 10 foot strips you should get most of the way on the chine so if you run it proud and protect a that joint from impact you'll probably be less likely to hit that spot and start to tear the layer off. I wonder how that kevlar will work in that capacity. While Kevlar is really tenacious stuff, it does have its own set of drawbacks...first, it doesn't wear very well...tends to fuzz and make a mess. While the fabric almost always stays together in an impact, the weave can get soft and mess up the bias of theweave of the fabric. Usually kevlar is used as the inside layer of a layup...ie I would have covered it with a layer of glass on top which wears better and would add stiffness in compression to the laminate, an area where Kevlar is lacking....it fairs significantly better in tension...it's strong point. Last point about kevlar, in regards to delam issues is that it tends to float in a layup, ie not soaking up much resin, where the fabric is more encapsulated on either side by resin.nthis can lead to bonding issues. It really is miracle fabric in some capacities, but it needs to be used correctly. You did a nice job though, and I think if you protect the joint you can probably keep the layer from peeling. Let us know how it wears.

As for the expansion on the strips, what about neoprene washers as spacers under the head of the screw. This would allow a certain amount of squish in the system. Counter sink well, and bed the screws with marine caulk, I like sikaflex 291, but there are plenty of non permenant bedding compounds. 5200 is pretty permanent. That should work good. When I did my strips aj recommended not going into the side panel, just into the chine batten, I used 3/4" screws

Comment by Phillip Westendorf on September 17, 2012 at 8:50pm

Tom,

Recently I picked up a set of tapered drills (7 sizes ; No. 5-12) with adjustable position countersink and adjustable set collar to set the depth of the countersink.  I think they'd work just as you described.  They were purchased from Harbour Freight, Item No. 07608.  I don't remember the cost but it wasn't a lot.

For the sealer as you put the screws in I'd recommend West System G-Flex Epoxy.  It will allow an amount of movement and can be removed later as needed.  I used a phillips screwdriver engaged  in the screw and heated the screw driver shank with a propane torch.  The heat will allow the screw to be removed with the screw driver with little effort.

Hope this helps,

Dorf

Comment by Lawrence E. Long on September 17, 2012 at 7:41am

Tom:  Have not used any "plastic" but when I attach a gunwale,rub rail etc I  drill an oversized clearance hole in the piece  as you suggest.  As to the 5200-  you will never get the screws out this stuff is "permanent"  Suggest you use a "sealing type" of compound rather than an adheasive.

Good Luck