Hello everyone. Thanks for having me.

I am a total noobe to the world of wood working! I have been reading and researching constantly but I still can't figure this one out. I am afraid this is because most of the oar discussion out there do not have enough info about the type of boat it is intended for so (and I dont know how wooden boats compare to rafts).

I have some questions about oar dimensions. I want a light, balanced, springy oar (doesn't everyone?). It will be oiled only, so no extra strength from epoxy or resin...a bit from the glue maybe). I would like a modified (maybe more artistic...maybe stronger for whitewater) version of Pete Culler's Long Oar.

I think I have enough wood to make 4 oars so if they are a hair on the fragile side I'll have 2 spares. They will get no more than 15 days use each year.

I am curious how thick these oars need to be in 2 places

1) at the narrowest point of the Neck ( I am especially curious how narrow I can go at this point if I use an oval profile)
and
2) the round part of the shaft at the oar lock?

The long oars of pete culler pdf I have show the necks at 1 1/4 (I think...but its blurry) on a set of 9' spuce oars. I believe commercial whitewater oars are closer to 1 1/2 or even 1 3/4.  I would also like to use an oval (not round) profile at the neck. I am leaning towards using 1 1/4" x 1 3/4" .... But I know nothing and if 1 1/4 round is ok then maybe 1 x 1 3/4...Maybe even 1" x 2 1/4" ...thats pretty thin but its way more wood than 1 1/4" round.

As for shafts, I see designs for 1 3/4" and  2" and 2 1/4" shafts on 10" oars. I wonder how important this is. Wouldn't a 2" Sassafras oar be as strong as a 2 1/4" spruce oar(Culler's)... is this even relevant since the common whitewater oar (Sawyers smoker) is 2.3" ash - I think its really 2.25 + varnish. If I can go with 2" it will be much easier to get 4 oars from 6" stock (but after saw blade waste it might really be 1.9" or a tad less)    


A final question I have is regarding laminated blades. I have 2 options here. Laminate or not
1) I can cut a full oar w/ blade from each board and then use the scrap to increase the size of the shaft. The problem here is that, the scrape will be 1 3/4 (if the shaft is 2 1/4). Another possible problem is the blade will be at max 3/4 of an inch thick everwhere accept where the shaft contiues down it (is that a problem...seems common enough).

2) Use the Sassafras for the shaft and laminate a blade to it using scrap Sass and something else. I prefer the first plan because the entire oar would be Sassafras but this option allows for some artistic expression.

If I go the laminate shaft route, can I add the laminate blade pieces to an angle cut shaft. I.E. Taper the shaft from 2 1/4"  down to 1" (or whatever achieves the correct neck width) and then add the blade pieces to the shaft.
That may seem like a dumb question, but it seems like this taper (slight as it may be) makes this similar to gluing end grain. Plus, All of the oar blanks I have seen use straight pieces glued parallel, none with angled cuts.

ABOUT THE PROJECT

I am making a set of oars for a  16" Avon bucket boat (that is an inflatable whitewater raft for those of you not familiar with rafts) that will be used mostly in flat water with some class II & III rapids. The boat is designed to haul gear on multiday trips so it will usually be very heavy (1500-2000 lbs-rated much higher). Commercial made oars for this boat are a generaly 10 feet.

It is a 1970's model that I am restoring (these boats never die). I want to use as many antique accessories as I can but 35 year old oars are hard to come buy so I decided to build a pair. I have never undertaken any wood working projects so building a these is a little intinidating for me. I have read about the legendary & mythical properties of sassafras oars (and the imposability of finding one or the boards to make them) but it turns out I did find some.

ABOUT THE WOOD

The boards are clean and clear. The grain is tight and straight along the edges but has a traditional arch shape grain down the centers. If I cut full blanks from the wood this arch will be the main piece. If I laminate shafts and add blades I probably dont have to use the arch wood at all.

How much should this effect my desicion?

In line with the antique theme this wood was cut with a circular saw in a turn of the century mill. It was then stacked under a tarp for 50 years before appearing in my local specialty wood shop. I bought 5 boards (each is rough cut - 10' long - 1' x 6" true dimensions) I am fairly sure I will still have 3/4" after surfacing but if I dont I cant do 2 1/4" without a fourth layer.

RANDOM IDEA
 I think this might look great and help me extend the sassafras. I think I can cut an oar blank from a board with a 2 1/4" inch shaft. This will leave 1 3/4" scrap that can be laid down the length of the shaft but will fall short of the 2 1/4 needed. When 2 pieces of 1 3/4 are centered on a 2 1/4 piece 4 voids are created. Each of these could be filled with a strip of ash/maple/poplar/anything - A 1/4" piece of 1/4 round would fit perfect.
If the shaft was then tapered to a 1 3/4 round neck (or oval with a 1 3/4" height), the "strip pieces" would run all the way to the neck and look really slick.

Thanks in advance for any help.