Anchor Rope?

So what do you guys use for anchor rope?  And how long?

I can't remember where I put my old one, but as I remember it was made from double-braided nylon or polyester so that it would float.  And I'd guess that it was about a 1/2" in diameter.

I've noticed from photos, here, that a lot of you are using a black rope.  Is that the regular old stuff you see at Home Depot or Lowes?

If I'm wondering about bow eyes and oar lock sleeves and anchor rope, I must be getting close to putting this thing back in the water.

Thanks,

Jack

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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on April 10, 2012 at 12:31pm

I use 50 ft of 3/8 braided line on a 20lb anchor.  

Many use up to 75ft of 1/2 line for a 25 - 30 lb anchor.  The larger line is better for large hands to hang on to; however the longer and larger line requires more management in the boat.  

Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on April 10, 2012 at 8:57pm

Thanks, Randy.  So here's another question regarding anchors. 

I've sometimes had problems with my boat swinging back and forth (yaw?) when it's anchored in a current.  But it doesn't always do it, and I've never figured out what's common to when it does, or when it doesn't.

I've tried lengthening or shortening the amount of rope, but that seems to have no effect.

I read in an earlier thread that lowering the anchor pulley might help.  But then, that can also lead to bigger problems.

Any ideas?

Thanks,


Jack

Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on April 11, 2012 at 3:17am

Jack:  Randy is correct on the big rope/ big hands.  I use 5/8" for the main sheet on the Peapod sail- but thats because you are holding/pulling all the time.  Double braid is a more "floppy" rope that  handles better- but costs more.  Don't know about the yaw.-

Good Luck 

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on April 11, 2012 at 11:52am

Yaw will always happen if the transom's upriver chine batten is hitting the water.  The worst yaw I have had is when the transom chine dips into the water like a dipsy-diver making a big boat movement, then when the chine comes out of the water the boat moves back until the batten dips again. ( repeat until you give up and anchor somewhere else)

This happens most often when the anchor is mounted high on the transom, the boat is loaded without enough weight in the front, and/or you are anchored in fast water that swirls up and catches the transom batten from time to time. 

If you are fishing by yourself you can walk to the front of the boat and the yaw will sometimes stop. 

Placing your anchor lower on the transom is a help but I believe it's a combo of the three things above that cause the problem. 

Permalink Reply by Jayson Hayes on April 11, 2012 at 5:37am

Jack, if you leave your oar blades vertical (like a rudder) in the water it will usually take care of that, having to much anchor rope out will also cause this but also your weight distribution in the boat can also play a part aswell as the current (too swift and flat) in which your are anchored, hope this helps

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on April 11, 2012 at 6:14am

Jack,

 

Yaw.....  I've solved my yawing problems by lowering the anchor point on the transom.  Used to have an anchor arm hanging out the back.  That thing yawed in almost any water.  By lowering the hole in the transom about 2/3 up from the bottom solved it for me. 

Not sure of the "bigger problems" you mention.... if anything, a lower point on the transom is less stress on the transom.  shorter lever/pry bar.

50ft of 3/8 braid with no core for my anchor ropes. Ilike the blue and white stuff, but the black is good too.  They both grip well in a Bo's or Dierks when wet.

Permalink Reply by mitchell on April 11, 2012 at 8:34am

another method for correcting yawing...try not to anchor in water that is moving to fast but instead find softer spots to drop.

Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on April 17, 2012 at 6:54am

Hey thanks.  It sounds like it'd be better to lose 30 lbs or keep my fat butt out of the back of the boat, as my anchor pulley (Bo's) is about 1/4 - 1/3 of the way down the transom, already, anyway.  And getting it lower would put the stowed anchor below the bottom of the transom.

Speaking of which, have you guys noted AJ's (or was it Roger's) thread on attaching his anchor directly to the rope with a slip knot rather than carabiners, etc?  Sounds brilliant and solves several problems.

Jack

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on April 17, 2012 at 9:54am

Yes all, please note A.J. method of attaching the anchor. Sanderson and I have been using that since he posted it and we will never go back to any other method. 

Thread the rope through the anchor eyelet, thread a heavy fender washer down the rope, tie off the rope with a slip loop.  The anchor weight keeps the slip loop tight, the anchor runs up tight against the boats anchor pulley and causes no additional drop do to a knot or beener with a knot.  It's easy to set and to take apart and allows me to properly store the anchor for travel. 

Great stuff.

Permalink Reply by Aaron Helfrich on February 6, 2015 at 1:22pm
I use cut down oar rites as my oar stop above the wraps. When you sit on anchor, your blades will stay straight up and down and eliminate yaw. Oar rites are a good tool to learn to row, but the equivalent of training wheels.
Permalink Reply by Craig Campbell on February 6, 2015 at 2:44pm

Ultimately, the diameter of the rope is determined by the hardware that it runs through.  Choose the largest diameter that runs smoothly.  In my case 3/8".  As far as rope I've had great luck with double- braided nylon, etc.

Permalink Reply by Russ Tuter on February 6, 2015 at 6:05pm

I'm running 50' of 7/16 double braid for anchor line, and a 25# anchor.  I'm in a Rapid Robert, and have had no problems with Yaw when anchored.

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