Well I'm building a 17 54 baker drift boat. So far I've got a pallet of expensive ply wood and one scarf cut

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Putting 6 oz on the sides I found to be fun and easy. The heavy stuff on the bottom, not so much, but needed for strength.

So between my table saw crapping out and moving I've been unable to keep going. But it's all good now and I've got 8/9 bottom ribs done. Thinking I'll have ribs complete by next weekend. Ordered all my fasteners today so I can just keep chugging along

Edit: forgot to say thanks for the advice. Went back and read tungstens numbers on weight of epoxy per density of cloth and it'd make no sense not to do 4 or 6 on the sides
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I dont see #8 frame;) I think the 6 oz was nice on the side. If I look really close I can see the glass weave a little bit, but its pretty transparent, and I`m sure it added some protection for the wood. I used Wests special clear hardener

So its dawned on me that no one starts a build thread before their frames and stem are done because it's not an exciting thing to read about.  But no matter, had to buy a new table saw but I'm on a role

Laminated my transom blank last night, 1/4" to 1/2" for a 3/4" transom

Pretty 1/2" ply

Finished Stem(angles look odd in photo but are true)

Almost ready to put it together

Weighing down transom blank

Before I finish my frames I've been wondering about my interior finish. Originally, I had planned to oil the entire interior. I have seen how the stitch and glue guys like to run that blueish durabak on the inside of their boats and then stumbled across this picture of greg hattens

If you notice the bottom of all the frames as well as the floor is coated in what looks like a durabak material.  Would this have any impact on rot way down the road or would it completely seal the wood? I was thinking if I were to go this route I'd epoxy the bottom of every frame. 

Stitch and glue boats are normally covered with glass,floor and up the sides.So this does the water proofing.Durabak was just an easy way to cover/hide all the lumps and bumps from the glass work,saved a lot of sanding.

Durabak is good stuff but i dont think its meant to water proof?,if you covered everything in epoxy first 2-3 coats then i think youll be OK.Keep in mind removing the durabak in the future will difficult.

Thanks tungsten, I guess my question is which would be a more lasting solution? Epoxy then durabac floor and bottom frames, or just oil? Also, I'm assuming with something like durabak hosing the boat out would work great vs with oil can you effectively hose it out or will grit stay in the corners?
I ask because if I decide to do durabak it'd be nice to epoxy my frames before final assembly

I would think frames and floor boards covered in epoxy then durabak would last quite long and be easy to pressure wash clean.If you could tint the durabak to look like wood that would look awesome!

I think that's what I'm doing tungsten. They offer it in texture and smooth and a good selection of colors

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