Baker 17x54 build

Well I'm building a 17 54 baker drift boat. So far I've got a pallet of expensive ply wood and one scarf cut

Views: 15709

▶ Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on March 29, 2017 at 10:00am

What worked really good for me was using a paint pan, and getting a bunch of the throw away plastic liners for the paint pan. If the tiny bit of epoxy hardened in the liner, I could use it again for the next batch, and it was nice to roll out of if you use the roller. For that super thick glass, the trowel would be best. For thinner glass like the sides, I just used the rollers. I used west sytem ans they have some nice 7" rollers. You can cut them in half and use on a 3" roller handle, worked great. All the wood got sealed with epoxy prior to adding any glass. Doing the sides was fun, the bottom was a little tougher to do. After the resin starts to harden up, you can trim it nice with a razor blade, then once your done with the sides you can sand the bottom edge nice to do the bottom

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on March 29, 2017 at 10:04am

Nice fish!!!

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 1, 2017 at 8:08pm

got my glass on and I think it went well.  Came back earlier tonight and got the first flow coat on.  Tomorrow morning its time for the final graphite filled flow coats.

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 2, 2017 at 4:03pm

Before you put the graphite coats on the bottom, you`ll want to mark out where all the screws are around the edges of the sides. This is a good idea so you dont try to run screws(or nails) into screws when you install your chine caps.

I just ran some painters tape around the sides and maked where all the screws were for later. I marked where the side screws are, as they will be covered by the chine caps, then I used the l in the B to mark where the bottom screws are. Just something you might want to think about and save some frustration. I also layed out all the screws sides and bottom, so I would have equal spacing on my chine cap srcrews. You can notice the spaces between the lines. You`ll also notice I used less screws around the bottom cause I used the 5200 on the bottom.

So your not glassing the sides? You`ll find out that chine cap wont flush out along the bottom, and you might end up adding more epoxy around the edges of the bottom. Thats why I waitied on the last couple coats till I got the chine caps on.

Also check with your epoxy compnay on the graphite mix. Its very little graphite. Use too much and its too brittle.

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 2, 2017 at 7:04pm
Yep I'm glassing the sides. Got the screws marked. Used the correct ratio of graphite to resin. I'm thinking I'll plane then sand the high spots once the caps are on. So far it's taken 5 fill coats with 4 being graphite mixed. I think one more is needed then it'll be done
Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 5, 2017 at 8:04am

So heres how it ended up after 6 fill coats

I sanded the bottom last night because I had a few lumps I wanted to get rid of and also wanted a better idea of how the weave looked without the glare of the fluorescent lights

going to roll on one more coat and move on to the sides

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 5, 2017 at 1:13pm

Looking good, your on the home stretch now!! From what Ive heard a little texture is good on the bottom vs super smooth. I think Dorf told me the factory says roughing it up a little to expose the graphite is even better, but I couldnt bring myself to do that :)

I just saw a old boat last weekend, needed some TLC but that same size I think. Thats a great size boat, your gonna love it.

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 10, 2017 at 7:42pm

This is how I'm marking where the screws for the chine cap will go, Mike Baker came through in the clutch with this idea.  I was stumped.

Just need to sand it tomorrow and get it glassed

All of you varnished exterior guys have my utmost respect. I was able to keep the interior spotless but as much as I tried to keep the exterior clean it just kept attracting drips and stains.  I finally just embraced it since it'll be painted anyway

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 11, 2017 at 4:51am

Might want to move that tape away from the edge, you`ll need to work the side glass edge at the bottom, and mark the side screws while your at it. Looking good!

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 11, 2017 at 9:34am

Im just going to cover it with packing tape when I start the glass. The marks are for where the chine cap screws go, not the existing screws

Permalink Reply by Mike Thomas on April 11, 2017 at 1:45pm

I know, during the glass on the sides you`ll still see the screws, but once you get on to primer you`ll want those screws marked (for the chine cap screws).

The reason I did (and the secret to keeping the sides clean for varnish) is sealing the sides with epoxy right off the bat before the bottom is installed. Then glassing the sides first, you could tape and cover the sides before bottom epoxy but I didnt bother, with the sides glassed any drips from the bottom is easy to wipe off or sand in a worse case before the final varnish finish and the wood cant get stained in any way. Easy peasy :)

Permalink Reply by Bennett Yarbrough on April 11, 2017 at 11:44pm
No, the marks are for where the chine cap screws go. The bottom screws have vanished and my marks for the chine cap screws will vanish once the sides are sanded. Seemed easier than marking two existing screw locations.

RSS

© 2024   Created by Randy Dersham.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Terms of Service