Hello all. I’m new to this forum, but I have to say in two nights of reading, I’ve learned quite a lot about wood drift boats. Why only two nights? Because I’ve spent the last 6 months contemplating building an aluminum drifter and never considered wood…till now.

I bought this boat for a hundred bucks with 2 decent wood oars, bronze oarlocks and a gallon of Penefin Marine oil. Keep in mind, my intended use for this boat is to use it for one fishing season and possibly a couple camping trips in order to determine if I want to build another to my personal liking. The boat will be used on the Trinity, a 500-2000 cfs river with up to class 2 waters where I fish I’m guessing. It will contact bottom now and then. I have no experience rowing a drifter, but have fished the same river from a small raft numerous times.

What I’d like is ideas concerning the design and origin of the boat as well as comments, advise and recommendations regarding my plan of attack (given my intended use).

 The boat for the most part is original, however the last owner built new seats and added a solid ½” plywood floor covering over ¾ of the bottom ribs. (excuse the possible incorrect terminology, I’m new). Otherwise the boat description is as follows:

• 15’6” overall length
• 13’4” bottom length
• 47 ½” bottom width
• 68” beam at the outside shear rail
• 34” stem
• 19” transome
• 22” gunwhale at the oar lock
• 9 ribs of 1 ¼ x 3” stock (unknown wood)
• Shear rails are 7/8 x 1 ½” fir and attached with #10 SS wood screws.
• Bottom and sides ¼” fir ply. But joint…no scarf joint.
• 1 ¼” ring shank bronze nails throughout. A few screws here and there.
• Rocker from flat floor measures 7 ½” in front x 6” in back.
• Interior was painted white
• Exterior sides painted forest green over light green over white(or primer)no glass or epoxy
• Bottom was fiberglassed. (removed)
• Never had any chine caps or side boards that I could tell.

Generally speaking, the ribs and all other structural framework seem solid. The bottom is also mostly solid but has 2 holes I’ve ground out to about 2”. The sides are not as solid as the bottom and are somewhat weathered. They have 3 or 4  2” holes I’ve ground out to 2” and another rotted hole that’s about 4 x 6”near the chine (chine log is solid). The painted interior looks ok, but is starting to check in most places.

Keeping in mind my intended use and after reading ideas on this forum, here’s my plan of attack:

• Sand entire bottom and sides removing all loose paint, epoxy and dead wood.
• Grind out rott and holes and vacuume clean.
• Patch the large hole in the side with a 6 x 18” x ¼” ply scarfed plug epoxied and screwed to available ribs. (system 3 epoxy)
• Repair other 2” holes using filler, epoxy and glass matt.
• Radius outer edge of chine and apply 6” fiberglass tape with epoxy.
• Cover bottom edge to edge with 20 oz matt and epoxy.
• Paint sides, shear to chine with exterior porch and deck enamel.
• Install oiled AC ¼” plywood scarf joined shoe over entire bottom using ss screws and? Adhesive.
• Install chine cap flush with exterior bottom ply shoe.
• Install rock guards (side boards?)
• Paint shear rails
• Ignore interior checked paint until I catch my first fish of the season.

What do you all think? Am I on the right track? Is the ¼” ply shoe over glassed ¼” bottom adequate? At this point, I don’t want to spend a bunch of money on this project as I’m not positive I’ll want to keep this boat. It’s kinda big and usually I fish alone. Any ideas or advise are welcome. Awesome site with lots of passionate participants by the way!

Troy Nicolls

Redding, CA