Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Double ender with transom--Working out the transom with 15' 9" side panels
Okay I scarfed 2 pieces of 8 foot plywood for my side panels and they are only 15' 91/2". When I clamped in the frames to form the boat the area for the transom is understandibly larger than the size transom on the plans. I have read that this should be worked out but no one has explained in any detail how it should be worked out. My take is that I just need to enlarge the transom to fill the space. Is it that simple? Neal Dettmering
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Views: 342
Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on
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Neal,
Great to hear yet another human bites the dust and builds a wood boat! Are your ribs fixed into place? If not, the way I built my 16 x 48 with transom was to screw and glue the two sides to the stem (bow) first then screw and glue the transom to the two sides. Now you have a wet noodle that could potentially split, crack, fall over and knock over your can of paint (or beer). Then (with the boat being upside down) I hung the #5 or #6 rib from the rafters and fitted it into place approximately where the plans said and then went out from there with the rest of the ribs. At the ends of the boat being the #1 and #9 rib of my boat (16x48 Don Hill) I put the ribs where the wood "felt good" and not exactly where the plans said to put them. It seemed to work out O.K. and it is a square and true boat, rows good too...
Cheers,
Robb Grubb
www.RiverTraining.net
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Permalink Reply by Neal Dettmering on
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Thankfully I have only clamped the ribs in place. Stem is already glued and screwed in . So I make the transom according to the plans and "adjust " the placement of the ribs--especially those between the mid point and the transom? Thanks,I was trying to adjust the transom and probably would have messed that up. Neal
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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on
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Wait Neal,
You can do this either way. Changing the transom would maintain the bottom shape of the design on the plans. Changing the frames will change the bottom shape some and might change the location or distance for the rowers seat. If you change the frames make sure that the distance between the rowers seat frames is maintained or the seat from the plans will not hang on the frames.
The DH plans were made when pre-scarfed panels could be purchased in Eugene and they were in fact 16ft long. Most builders now add a second small scarf to the end of the panel to get back to the true 16ft.
If your frames are all in place and the boat is from 15ft 9in stock then I recommend that you should cut the transom a little larger to avoid the possibility of other measurements for seats etc changing on you. To do this, clamp a board on the chine and and one on the shear of the transom end of the side panels holding them in place as the transom would. Adjust them back and forth while watching for a fair line along the side panel. You can tell by eye when it is right. Once it is in place measure and cut you transom. The differences will be minimal and have little affect on the performance of the boat.
If you move the frames the profile angles will all be a little bit off. You could do that but the boat sides will not be as fair. Rob is correct in that it can be fixed by moving the frames until they feel good. That would maintain side fairness but would change the boat shape and your plans measurements for the rest of the inside of the boat would now need to be adjusted.
As Rob suggested, as long as you match up offsets from one side to the other and make sure the boat has no rack when you put on the bottom, it will be true and perform great.
So, you have two choices. The only reason I prefer recommending changing the transom is because that technique will maintain the measurements of the rest of your plan parts. Once you move frames all other plan parts for the inside of the boat will also need to be adjusted.
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Neal, Just wondering how your boat is coming along and if you have progressed? Cheers, Robb
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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on
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I would totally frame in the boat. Starting at the stem, then frame #5, 6,4,7,3,8,2,9,1
Prop up the boat on some saw horses.
Square up the hull.
Use a spanish wind-lass or band straps to pull it all together at the transom end until it "looks right." lay a straight edge across the bottom edge of the transom. use your sliding bevel to measure the angle from the side to the bottom. check to verify this angle is the same on th eopposite corner. Adjust the 'lass or clamp as needed, until they are equal.
Now take your measurements.
Alternatively, you could build the transom, but add an inch or two on each side. Don't bevel it on the sides. Use your hand plane to make it fit.
Personally, although it would work, I wouldn't adjust frame locations.
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Here's my plan: I clamped 4 paint stirrers (one each) on the sheer and chine of each side and adjusted them to extend the sides and make up the 2 1/2 inches lost by the scarf. Then used a band clamp to pull the newly extended ends together until they were the dimensions of the transom as specified by the plans. From there I measured the distances at the chine and sheer from the actual end of the plywood sides and transferred this to my slightly larger transom. I think it was 1 inch bigger at the chine and 2 at the sheer. All frames were clamped in place at the time as specified for a full 16 foot boat measuring from the stem and ignoring that the sides were shorter. I went ahead and used the prescribed angles for the bevels and it looks like I will need only a bit of adjusting with a plane. Hopefully will be finding time this week to install the transome and start installing frames--from the middle. Neal
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Permalink Reply by Jonathan Clarke on
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I, a spatially challenged person, think the stir sticks were really a clever idea. Good luck with the continuing project!
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Thanks to all for the advice. The transom is in and fit great. Everything looks fine. Starting to put in the frames. Neal
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Got all the frames installed. Now for the chine log. wish me luck. Neal
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Okay, I finally found a suitable piece of white oak for the chine log and almost have it down to 5/8 thickness. Have what appears to be the proper bevels on the stem end and have used the 2 stick (battens) method to determine the exact length. I think I undetrstand the method for getting the correct bevels on the transom end and fitting it tightly;however "will it bend enough to get it in the frame notches? " do I need to steam the bow end? It doesn't give much. Neal
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You don't need to steam. It will bend; although this is just a little violent. The reason is that the chine log is a little too long at the point of entry and then seems to get shorter as it slides down the side of the boat as you tap it into the seated position against the frames.
Start at the bow end and clamp that joint in as clean and tight as possible then work your way back to the transom making sure that you tap and tighten the fit at each frame as you go.
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Permalink Reply by Roger Fletcher on
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Randy’s suggestion is a good one. Alternatively, you could try this: Talk a couple of sets of extra hands to assist so the installation pressure is evenly distributed. Clamp some short pieces of lath (6 to 8-inches) to the inside of 4 to 5 frames to help serve as a guide into the chine notches. Place the lath clamps so they don’t interfere with the chine log. Slide the chine down the lath and slowly, gently but firmly, work the chine into place. As each section of the chine is seated, clamp it secure. It also helps to bite your lip while at the same time, uttering the chine incantation (Hummmmmmmmm), and if you have helping hands to chant in unison. The chine will have considerable spring to it so helping hands must be firmly affixed and working in unison. I have been spanked by more than one chine, and it doesn’t feel good. Anyone else want to chine in here?
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