So what did the old timers use for boat coatings? I have yet to get Roger's book - need to order it this weekend!!

 

I just keep wondering what the old school method was and how they maintained the boats without epoxy, and poly stuff...Thanks in advance for sharing your knowledge.

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Red lead on the bottom and in the bilge, in Maine. Primer (hopefully) and marine grade (hopefully) paint on the topsides, after they stopped mixing their own paint. Rails and above: nothing, oil (i.e. tung), varnish, primer and paint ... it all depends on who built the boat for what.
"ye old down east oil" For a nice sub-dude oil finish easy to maintain and protects the wood from within.

Linseed oil- 1 part
Turpentine- 1 part
Pine tar- 1/4 part

optional japan drier to evaporate off faster. (1/4 part)

My boats still use this on the interiors.
Dave Z has the mix right. Remember to wipe off any oil that has not soaked in after an hour or so in the hot sun. Let the rags dry out before disposing them- the mix can spontaneously combust if left in a pile. The mix has been used on the outside porch floor of my father-in-laws house in MA. Original mahogany decking installed in 1927 and the floor is as good as new.
Good Luck
A few (10-20) years ago lots of folks used Linseed oil here in Oregon . I applied it to a friend's boat then, and it still looks pretty good. I have not used it on mine. One has marine spar varnish, the other marine paint. The Linseed oil remained real tacky/sticky for some time.
David: The "tacky-sticky" is why I like to use Japan Drier in the mix. We have a "bunkhouse/boathouse" at the summer place on Cape Cod. Plain white pine floor. I wanted to seal it so mixed up the turps/linseed( no pine tar) but found out I was out of Japan Drier. Figured what the heck and laid it on.- Big mistake- that was 6-8 years ago. Still slightly tacky today. The wife reminds me of this whenever she sweeps the floor. If you don't use the drier make sure you wipe the wood down with rags untill they don't pick up any oil. Leaving any oil on the surface thinking it will"soak in" is not going to work.
Good Luck
I've used it without the drier too, and it sucks in real nice on meranti, but on oak and fir, it remained tacky. The drier or time is essential to eliminating tackiness.

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