Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
New Option
Hey gang, I found another option but I cain't seem to get a price for it ( which usually means it is expensive). Aquatek, take a look here http://alliedveneer.com/marine_plywood/Aquatek_Marine_Ply_48_x_98-p...
is anybody familiar with it?
Cheers
Jerry
Views: 458
Replies to This Discussion
-
Permalink Reply by Jerry Thompson on
-
Found A price 36.20 a sheet
-
Permalink Reply by Mike Baker on
-
Hey Jerry,
I have used both of those. The Aquatek is WAY better. If you don't mind about $20 more Hydrotek is better still. The Aquatek is a true Marine Plywood but only has a BS 6566 rating. I built two drift boats with Aqua and a prototype pram with the cheap stuff, all are still going strong but the outside veneer on the Pram is de-laminating in a few spots (it is paper thin, might even be paper!). The Aqua has a little thinner face veneer than the Hydro so it is a little harder to get a real pretty scarf. I only use Hydro now.
Mike
-
-
Thanks Mike, I have access to both and I will probably use Hydro when I build which will start right after Thanksgiving. I will use Doug Fir for the frames and White Oak for the chines and chine cap and probably Red oak for the sheer and inwale. since this is my first build look for lots of questions from me.
Cheers
Jerry
-
Permalink Reply by Scott Hepler on
-
Jerry. Stay away from Red Oaks in boat building. The Red Oaks lack tyloses, allowing water to penetrate the wood to literally weep and seep at the end grain. This combined with other factors causes the Red Oaks to be subject to the rapid onset of mold, fungus and rot.
-
-
Hey Jerry,
Scott is right on. As long as you have access to white oak us it for the chine, chine cap and all the hand rails. Also I would suggest using doug fir ply for the bottom.
Mike
-
-
As long as we are talking about wood. I like to use quarter sawn white oak. It is not that much more money in the overall cost of the boat. It bends better, it steams better and is stronger since the grain is perpendicular to the long side. Plus the medediary ray flakes look cool. However I haven't seen many post here regarding it's use. I also like the use of ash. It doesn't look as good as quarter sawn white oak but it is very straight grained and is in my opinion a great choice for the gunnels since it bends nice and is very hard and durable. Just my 2 cents, and I like woods.
Scott
-
Permalink Reply by Dave Z on
-
Whatever import wood you get, look for a British Standard 1088 stamp on it (BS1088). These guys are right, stay away from the BS6566. If you can get it in good quality, get some AB marine fir. At least use fir on your bottom. 1/2 or 5/8". I won't build a boat with an exotic bottom. Fir is really tough stuff.
Where are you located? Homestead Marine in Ohio has good prices. I make the drive once a year (3 hours) to buy wood for my projects.
They have both 1/4" fir and 6mm BS1088 Hydrotek for $39/sheet. That's pretty good out east here. Marine stuff is hard to come by.
http://marine-plywood.us/douglas%20fir.htm
-
-
Scott is right, of course, about the Red Oak. Thats why I was thinking of using it only above the water line. But, the saving between red and white probably aren't that great anyway. So, white it is.
I took a closer look at the web site of the lumber company in Fort Collins ( I live in Colorado be the way) and they do indeed have marine grade Douglas Fir ply in several thicknesses including 1/2 and 1/4. Now, if Doug Fir is the strongest, why would I not use it for the sides as well, instead of something imported?
-
Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on
-
Jerry: Here in Maine our boatbuilding wood supplier has stopped handling DF ply. The quality has gotten so bad he dosen't want to bother with it. Call your supplier and make sure its true marine grade with 5 plys. I saw some once that they called maring grade that had 4 plies. If you can find it of decent quality go for it. I used it for a 17' stitch and glue DB but that was some 6-8 years ago. If you use DF I suggest it be coverd on both faces with l;ight weight fiberglass. If you just paint/varnish over bare DF it will check. My little 12' skiff was done this way and it checks except for the bottom that was FGed As Dave Z says DF would be good for the bottom-covered with FG and graphite. If you use Merranti or Occume on the sides you can paint or varnish without the FG. Merranti is cheaper than Occume but eats the hell out of plane blades. My canoes are made with Occume- somewhat softer and lighter than Merranti but nicer to work with.
Just my 2 cents worth. Spent 4 years at the Colorado School of MInes - loved Colorado
-
Permalink Reply by Don Wakefield on
-
Hi Lawrence -- this is an aside from boat building, couldn't help but say hello after seeing that you had graduated from Colorado Mines. Me too, Metallurgy 62 - my fifty year coming up in a couple years! Will include a picture of my drift/dory jetboat project that I want to finish sometime in February maybe??
-
-
Nuther pic to explain the jetboat thing.
-
-
Don: Great looking boat- colors are exactly as my (Son's) 17' . Is the beautiful paint job the result of the spraygun sitting on then the tablesaw? To my way of thinking the careful use of varnish on gunwales, bresthooks etc makes a better looking boat rather than one varnished from stem to stern. Plus all varnished hulls are a real PITA to keep looking good . Is that a 4 stroke jet ski engine ? Keep us posted as to the sea trials.
Good Luck- 1960- Mining
© 2024 Created by Randy Dersham.
Powered by
