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general rule of thumb (or so ive been told) is 16" from the back of the seat. this from a very knowledgable gentleman at adirondack guide boats who answered a bunch of my questions via email knowing i had no intention of buying one of his gorgeous boats.
Don: Justin might have the best solution- make up a "mock" seat and fiddle with it. The 17' DB I built has the seat about 6-8" below the gunwale andf the locks are about 10" from the front of the seat. The skiff we use has a seat(thwart) 9 1/2" wide (1x10) and the locks are about 10" in front of the aft end of the seat. I can" hook" the fat end of my butt over the edge of the forward end of the seat and row very well. So it appears that 16-18" from the back of the seat might not be too far off. With your style of seat with the full back(very good looking job) you might want to allow a little more room from the seat to the locks so that you can lean back somewhat when you want to really "put the ash" to the oars. Let us know how it finally works out and how it rows. With the added weight it probably won't handle like a standard DB.
Good Luck
Yes - still scratching my head but the jury is still out and I haven't drilled any holes. Using the mock up idea sorta - I sat on the existing seat and tried to simulate a rowing action with my hands, then, using the middle of my stroke for the oarlock position it worked out that it was about 2-3" ahead of my kneecaps and between 10 and 11" in front of the seat. I noticed on one or more of Roger's drawings that the oarlock was placed about half a frame ahead of the seat, which would be a rough agreement to the 10" position. I want to mount the locks on the inside of my unorthodox 6" wide level rails so I can swing the blades into the tackle tray on the inside, so in order to clear the oar from rubbing the outside edge I have elevated the socket with a chunk of oak.
While all this head scratching and brainstorming is going on I noticed these sorta handles sticking out from the side of my tool box -- wow wouldn't take much just to mount these handles and then use them for a sliding socket apparatus that could be moved to accomodate various sizes of rowers - as many conventional sockets are drilled in several locations between the gunnel battens. Similar to the slider that I fashioned for the throttle to accomodate the seat facing forward and using the right-hand, or the seat facing the bow and using my left hand for throttle.
Now this is really tempting!
It works out too that I can swing my feet up against that motor box to give me some gription with heavy rowing as the seat is pretty high.
Thanks much Lawrence for your input, appreciate the help from both you guys...... Don in Paradise, CA
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