new member, pics added

hello, my name is justin nicola.  i live in charleston sc.  i do custom interior trim work and flip houses (when im not fishing).  i stumbled across your site searching for info on building a wooden boat.  i have been wanting to resore an old boat for some time.  i recently bought one, but when i got into it, i realized it was too far gone to restore, and it was cheaply built (full disclosure: the seller knew it too, i paid $50).  so i decided to use it as a template and start from scratch.  it is designed like a kayak, but i am going to modify the top so its a one man rowing dory.  my father has a collection of old wooden boats and is turning 60 in november, so it will be an early birthday present (hope its early anyway!).  anyway, i am using 1/2"marine plywood for the bottom, white oak for the bracing, the top and trim will be mahogany, and the sides will be 1/4" mahogany plywood.  therein lies the issue.  i plan to glass the bottom of the hull and halfway up the gunnels (or so), but i want to leave the inside and top half of the gunnels wood.  i will be using epiphanes high gloss varnish on all the wood (at least 6 coats), and am a little concerned about the mahogany plywood.  it is a "solid core" plywood, but NOT built using marine glue (like marine plywood).  i have worked w epiphanes in the past, and think its a great product, but do not want the plywood to buckle over time from moisture damage.  anybody have any thoughts on this?  i have been taking photos of the process, but camera is out in my shop and its cold and rainy so pics will be added later.  by the way, the picture uploading on this site looks great.  i hate having to download them from online.  thanks in advance, justin

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Permalink Reply by justin nicola on January 10, 2011 at 8:45pm

also, i have been using titebond "ultimate" wood glue thus far.  it is fully waterproof, but its still just glue.  should i be using 5200 or something else?  also, do they make clear 5200?  ive never seen it...

thanks.

Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on January 11, 2011 at 9:07am

Welcome Justin. 

On the plywood you should either completely encapsulate the non-marine plywood with fiberglass and epoxy using the non-marine plywood as a core material.  This is one way to use a non-marine product and have it last; however it will increase the cost.

 

It might be less expensive to purchase Hydrotek Plywood and epoxy coat it without the fiberglass cloth.  I believe that would be the best looking and longest lasting way to get the look you are after.  Any non-marine plywood is very likely to give you trouble after a few seasons of reasonable use.

 

About the Tightbond glue.  There are published tests that prove that this glue is great for applications where it is not soaked in water; however, the bond strength is greatly reduced in areas that allow the glue to soak.  Use it only in areas above the waterline and away from the bottom of the boat.

 

5200 comes in four colors that I know of, black, white, mahogany, and tan.  Check out Jamestown Distributors.

 

Again, welcome.  We are all looking forward to photos.

Permalink Reply by Bryan Bowers on January 12, 2011 at 7:09pm

As someone who works with hardwood and has done many nema type III tests (very thorough testing) on titebond III let me say that titebond will work as good as the glue joint.  If the joints are tight and enough glue is used the glue joint will be stronger than the wood it is joining together, even after 24 hrs of submersion and drying x 3.  But you are correct in the titebond is not a good choice if the joints are as such to allow water to easily penetrate throughout.  When choosing which titebond is best the label states it all; titebond II = nema type II, titebond III = nema type III.

Permalink Reply by justin nicola on January 12, 2011 at 8:51pm
all my joints are super tight.  all cuts made w/ 72 or 80 tooth trim blades.  also, i use glue brushes to ensure full coverage on all joints.  i appreciate the info.  i had a cabinet guy glue two footlong 1x6s together in a T a few years ago (this was using a 2 part glue w/ a spray activator).  ten seconds later, he passed it to me and told me to snap the joint.  i tried w/ all my might and finally snapped the board leaving the joint intact.  at that point i realized glue, if used properly, was as important as the fasteners you use if not more so. 
Permalink Reply by justin nicola on January 11, 2011 at 11:07am

randy, thanks for the info.  appreciate the prompt response.  see attached pictures.  cutting the bottom braces was extremely time consuming.  every one was a compound miter, and every one was differnt.  lots of measuring and changing.  it was also tricky to get the initial framing in.  cutting long radiuses at 22.5' w/ a jigsaw is not easy.  thank heaven for belt sanders.  anyhow, from here on out it should be mostly right angles.  more pics to come.  first two shots show you why plywood needs to be sealed properly.  thats my helper charlie in the second one.  love that epiphanes,  but it sure does take its time drying...

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Permalink Reply by justin nicola on January 14, 2011 at 8:57am

"stems" are now in place.  i am prepping the 1/4" ply for the gunnels now.  again, just waiting for paint to dry.  not sure how i am going to kill out the joints at the bow and stern.  it is going to be a sharper angle than 45' so i cannot use a router bit to champher(sp?) it out.  maybe a table saw with the board on end.  also, i have used copper plumbing pipe hammered flat as accents in the past.  i plan to "band" the middle joint, maybe i'll use it as a keel guard as well.  not bothering to post pics since it doesn't look to much different.  i am starting a big job on the 20th so i am trying to get as much done as possible while i put the finishing touches on my current house project. 

 

questions: i want to glass the bottom third of the exterior, paint that flag blue, follow that w/ a 2" fire red boot stripe, then epiphanes on the top portion.  will the fire red look different if i span wood and fiberglass w/ it or is it a powerful enough paint where it will hide any difference?  also, should i put sanding sealer on the whole hull, even if i plan to glass over it? or should i leave the top portion blank til the painting is complete?

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on January 12, 2011 at 6:56pm
nice looking shorthair.  Does he hunt birds?
Permalink Reply by justin nicola on January 12, 2011 at 8:43pm
  i don't hunt, so his hunting is limited to the backyard and the beach.  birds learned a long time ago to steer clear.  he caught a squirrel a few months ago and was extremely proud though.

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