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Jordan: If the boat is made with DF PW I suggest you FG the sides because they will develope checks fairly soon and the paint job will not hold up. If you oil the inside the checks don't look that bad. Merranti, Okume etc hold paint well without FG. I presume you will FB the bottom and up over the side/bottom a few inches using graphite/epoxy. My current Peapod build(Merranti) has no FG on the planking but will have Dynell on the bottom and garboard plank- as the grand kids will be dragging it over the beach at times.
Good Luck
Since you are using a good mahogany PW on the sides I see no advantage to laying on a coat of epoxy. It will cost more, not add anything strength wize, will have to be sanded smooth to get a good looking surface for paint, and I don't think it adds any more "waterproofing" than a good paint job. I like to prime with the same paint thinned 10-20% on the first coat, then second primer coat thinned 5-10%. Sand with 220-320 grit after priming and between 2 final coats of full strength right out of the can.(light sand between coats.) There are 1000's of boats here on the coast that have never had the first touch of epoxy coating and they do quite well wiith normal maintenance.I have a Peapod that sits on it mooring from May to Oct and has the paint job described above. Just my .02 worth- others may have differing methods but this work for me.
Good Luck
Can you fiberglass over the screws you use on the sides and bottom? Or is there a reason for not fiberglassing and epoxing over...
Nothing "wrong" with screws or ringshanks. Ring shanks are cheaper, faster,hold just as well as screws. As to the "dings" in the hull- don't use a 16 oz framing hammer. I like a 6-8oz ballpein and light hits. Then when you get close up on the nailhead/wood surface use a flat ended punch to sink it home. If you miss- thats what fairing compound is for.
Good Luck
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