Hi All,
I have been poking around here trying to get some ideas for buiding a large river pram, or skiff for use on the Bow River up in Calgary AB, Canada.
What I am hoping to build is a modern skiff with tradtional materials.The closest example of what I would be looking to buid would be a Montana Boat Builders Freestone Skiff, but with ribs, not S&G.
I have been in touch over email with Dave Z, and he suggested I order Roger's book, which I intend to do, but my mind is working faster than the postal system so I was hoping to ask a few questions here. Rather than harass him I thought I would draw on the collective knowledge here.
1. Is it feasible to consider building a skiff with a 15' x 54" bottom dimension? (sorry I am still working on my boat terms here - prairie boys usually dont buid boats). I am assuming that that the dimesions at the oarlocks will be dictated somewhat by the flare of the boat which I am not set on. The more room the better for me.
2. Regarding construction, when one is using scarf joint to create the bottom, how much can one usually expect to loose in dimesion? ie. Will joining 4 - 48" yield a 16' bottom?
3. Finally, if any one know of some plans that would work for what I have in mind please feel free to point me in that direction.
I am sure I will have more questions as I explore building a wooden boat. I have always liked the look of traditional wood boats, but there are not many applications for them here on the east slope of the Canadian Rockies. A well crafted wood skiff would sure be nice to break the monotony of all those glass boats & aluminum out here. Glass is for rods, aluminum is for beer in my world.
Thanks,
Andrew
Tags:
Andrew: from the Forestry Handbook: #1 best-#5 Lowest
Nail Holding Decay Paint Holding Glueability Impact Hardness
WRC 4 1 1 1 17 660
DF 2 3 4 2 30 670
W Pine 2 3 2 2 19 400
WO 1 4 4 3 39 1330
Cyprus 3 1 1 2 24 660
Impact and hardess- higher=better WRC seems to tend more to splitting when nailing
Good Luck
Thanks for that Lawrence, that helps me out alot.
I am leaning toward WRC as it is easy to source here and I like working with it.
I think I will go with WRC for the cross members and WO for the chines & gunnels, DF for the bottom & some Meranti for the sides. I think I can get Hydrotek here for a decent price.
From what I have gathered I know that silicon-bronze ring nails are just as strong as screws, but I really prefer to use screws so I will probably use SS screws for the unseen parts and SB screws for the hull and any parts where they will be seen in the wood. Screws may have better holding power in the soft cedar.
Off to make a manilla folder model.
Andrew
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