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Permalink Reply by Kevin C. on March 11, 2011 at 8:07am

I just put a bottom on a steele restore and used bronze screws to set the panel to the stem and midships and nailed the rest with 1" into the chines and 1 1/4" into the frames. Just 6 screws total one on each end and 4 on each side to hold down the panel on the bend.Be sure to dry fit and pre drill everything first and beware not to put the wrong angle on the chine area fasteners so you dont poke them through the chine inside.

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Permalink Reply by chris towles on March 19, 2011 at 5:32pm

ben,

awhile back i commented to you that i had a painters technique for razor sharp lines with caulking. what you want to do is as randy suggested. get your pieces on  and dry fitted. now, take some blue or white painters tape and mask 1/8" from the joint on both surfaces..try and get your masking as stright as possible. now run the 5200 into the joint. use enough, but don't use too much. take your fingers and smooth out the excess so that the joint is now filled and smooth. now take a rag with paint thinner and run it along the joint.. this will pull all the any excess adhesive off the masking and out of the joint. at this point you will be looking at a nice tight looking bead about 1/8 to 3/16 wide. pull your tape before the caulk sets and let her dry. this technique should probably be used anywhere that you'll be dealing with adhesive you want to oil over if you want a nice looking oil finish. if you use enough masking you can make just about anything look good. just take your time, the rest cleans up with paint thinner before it cures. word of caution too, you'll prob read in a few threads. when you deal with 5200, cleanup, tape removal, etc all has to be done before the glue kicks. once it cures it is very permanent.

 

nice work sofar..things are looking good.

chris

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