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Permalink Reply by JAY STRUGNELL on December 1, 2011 at 7:09pm

Most were originaly built with a nice tight fit between sides and frame pockets dry then they were fastened through the sides with screws or ring nails every 2 or 3 inches skipping,or not going into the frames. Now I'm hearing builders are installing them the same way only bedded in5200 or the like. The bottom will then sit perfectly on frame,chine logs and sides and fasten to frames and chine logs with screws or ring nails.Most I think are going to recomend bedding bottom to frames,logs,and sides with 5200.

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Permalink Reply by Kevin C. on December 1, 2011 at 11:10pm

Hey Ray,when we put chine logs in we carefully trim the transom end into a tight fit while the rest of the piece is dry clamped into place. counter sink all your screws holes  through the ply and into the clamped in chine.remove the piece and apply your sealant to the inside of the ply(pencil mark the top line of the chine when dry fit ).fit the piece in and screw  through the ply and into the chine,this usually takes 3/4" stainless or bronze screws.If you have cut your frames tight to the chine you should get a nice seal on the outside and structurally sound on the interior.let any extra sealant cure before trimming or just leave it,if youre not worried about the  look.no need to send larger screws through to the frame as this would just add another place for water to seep in.

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Permalink Reply by Ray Cotnoir on December 2, 2011 at 4:45am

Hi Jay and Kevin,

Thanks for the reply.  When we originally built the boat 22 years ago my fellow carpenter friends and I thought that "everything should tie in".  That was the house builder in us.  I see several posts that say no need to fasten to frames.  I had to make new chines and they don't seem to fit all the original frame pockets perfectly.  Looks like a good place for 5200 to make up any gaps.   My original screw holes in the frames did indeed show rust where water got in and rusted up the zinc coated screws.  Of course I use stainless steel now.  Got the chines already dry fitted, countersink holes done.  Now am looking at the dreaded tubes of 5200.  The love/hate continues!  Do you guys spread the 5200 and putty knife flat?  I think that was the old method. 

I am glad to be saving the boat instead of building new.  Not for the sake of money, but she has been a good friend through good times and bad.  As a fellow said (pulled up beside me at a stop light witha cedar canoe on the roof).  "Wood is Good"

Thanks for your input

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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on December 2, 2011 at 9:53am

Ray, the best luck we have had with 5200 is to take a small chip brush, one or two inches, and cut the bristles off so they are only 3/4 of an inch long.  This allows you to spread the 5200 by dabbing it with the brush.  The bristles must be very stiff and the short length accomplishes that.

Inside the chine notch you don't need to spread at all.  Just use the calking gun to lay a bead that will spread when the chine log goes into place.  Allow it to goo out and don't touch it!

Give it a half a day or so to dry which will get you about 1/2 way through the set up time.  Then use a tile calk tool to cut away the excess.  Clean any overlap with solvent. 

The key is to not manipulate or clean the 5200 right after application. It is a tar baby.  By letting the outside cure to the touch you can cut and clean without the tar baby affect.  But you have to make sure to do your work before the 5200 is cured through. 

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Permalink Reply by Ray Cotnoir on December 2, 2011 at 10:22am

Hi Randy,  Thanks for the tip.  I remember having too much fun the first time I played with 5200.   What do you use for solvent.  I see that denatured alcohol is a big no no as it will not allow the stuff to cure.  3M only talks about their own solvent for clean-up.  We used mineral spirits last time but had to work it pretty hard.  Any luck on the manual and aluminum eye bolt?  Thanks again,

Ray Cotnoir

 

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Permalink Reply by Randy Dersham on December 3, 2011 at 9:18am

Paint thinner will do it.  I prefer naptha over mineral spirits because it evaporates faster. Use only as little as you need. Remember that faster evaporation means it has a lower flash point so don't leave any rags around in a bunch.  Either of these solvents can burn your shop down. 

I did find an old Tatman manual but had to order more all thread for the eye bolt.  Thought I had them ready to go.  It will ship Monday.

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