Wooden Boat People

By McKenzieDriftBoat.com

Drain hole

OK, here's another end-of-project question. Where do you guys put your drain hole?

When I built this boat I placed it at the lowest point in the rocker, an inch or so in from the chine, and used one of those brass through-hull fittings with a threaded brass plug.

It worked great, never leaked, and at least to me, seemed more practical than putting it in the rear like you see on glass boats.

However, that was with a UHMW skid shoe on the bottom. This time I'm putting a graphite/fiberglass skid shoe on the bottom, so I'm not sure how to cut through the glass and seal between the glass and the wooden bottom.

I'm considering using a matching brass through-hull fitting from the bottom that would be flush with the glass and would hold the glass against the bottom.

Any ideas?

Jack

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Replies to This Discussion

Permalink Reply by Dave Z on March 22, 2012 at 10:44am

I have done drain holes in all the spots you mention. My preference is just as you did- lowest point of the rocker where you can SEE IT (you will notice it when you forget it alot faster!) and get the best drainage.

I've used this: although, i never paid more than $6 for them...... wonder whats up....

http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid...

I mounted it flush on the inside of the floor, 5200'd the hell out of the hole inside and out, installed it and forgot about it. Did this on boats with glass bottoms and my latest three builds that have oiled wood skid shoes.

You could drill the hole, mix up some epoxy and thicken it, slather it up to seal it off. 5200 it and install.

Dave

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Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on March 22, 2012 at 11:22am

Hey Dave, thanks.

And yes, that's exactly the one that I had used. I was thinking that this time, in addition to the one on the top, I'd mount a second flange from the bottom, and countersink it flush with the fiberglass layer to help seal the fiberglass to the wood.

But it sounds like I'm over thinking it, which is not unusual for me. So just goop the cut edges of fiberglass and plywood with with epoxy, and 5200 the fitting, and go for it, huh?

It just seems so easy.

Jack

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Permalink Reply by Dave Z on March 22, 2012 at 6:25pm

Yeah buddy, that's all it needs. overdo the 5200 and let it all squeeze its way into the nooks and crannies.

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Permalink Reply by Steve Jay on April 20, 2012 at 3:47pm

wait you guys just screw that in and it seals up real nice? you mean i can stop using these stupid thing?

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Permalink Reply by Jack Rose on April 20, 2012 at 7:27pm

Steve, when I first built my boat, I did exactly what Dave mentioned, above, and even used the same fitting that he linked to.

In my restoration, I wanted to put in a second one (again as Dave suggested), and as he said, JD has them for something crazy like $25. However, I found one on eBay for about $6, and it's now in the mail.

With my old one I drilled a hole through the end of the brass plug that I could both put a ring through so that I could tie it to something. and I can also slip a 16d nail through it and unscrew it by hand w/o searching for wrench that I always seem to forget.

By the way, you can find the same sized spare plug in the galvanized plumbing section of your local hardware store.

Jack

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Permalink Reply by Robb Grubb on April 20, 2012 at 10:30pm

Jack, Like Dave says. The only thing I would add is if you want rain and 'after the river trip wash water' to drain during your drive home, be sure to put the drain on the right side of the boat (looking down river?) if you trailer it bow first (not traditional bow). Seems that the slope of the road helps drain to the right... You thought YOU over think stuff :)

Love the hole drilling and nail technique....way too many days with cold, frozen fingers trying to thread that thing.