Hi all, am at the point where it's time to add rub strips to the bottom of the replica we are making of the GEM. In 1951-52, Fulmer used 31/2 inch by 3/8 inch full length oak slats spaced 1/2" bow to stern attached to the bottom of the 3/8 inch floor plywood. (see photo)

So now I'm ready to add the rub strips to the bottom of the boat. What type of meterial should i use?I can get some 8 foot 4 quarter white oak and mill it down, but since the boat will be painted, what if i used 31/2 inch strips of 3/8 inch hydrotek scarfed together?

Your advice is most appreciated, yours, tom

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If you are tying to replicate the GEM to a whisker, then W oak strips would be the way to go. Much more expensive material, however. Randy could best speak to the hydrotech question. It looks like you have done some cloth / epoxy work on the bottom already, technology that wouldn't have been available to Fulmer, I'm sure. If you are simply trying to capture the lines of the boat then why go with strips at all. Bullet proof that bottom with 20 to 24 ounces of clothe and several coats of resin. The earlier McKenzie guides gave up on the strips in part because they were a bit dangerous in bony water, preferring instead a completly flat bottom. Just a thought. Looks like you are continuing ot have fun with the project. Roger
Hi Roger, thanks for your note. Fulmer built the GEM with screws and caulk, and no glue. GULP! So we are not building a replica boat "exactly" as he did. We realized we would have to make some diversions as scarf free 16 foot long plywood and 16 foot long white oak strips are no longer available. That said, we are hoping to replicate the "look" of the boat, hence the bottom rub strips. You are quite correct, we are glassing this boat, inside and out. Man, i'd like nothing better then to keep the bottom of the boat nice and smooth, free of the bony water potential to catch an edge. But, it just wouldn't have the same look. So, as we are looking to capture the "look" (and the whole exterior is painted), the idea of using hydrotech is being considered. One coat of epoxy, then use bedding compound between the 31/2" strips and the actual floor. These are sacrifice boards, so we can peal them off and replace as needed.

Yes, it is fun, and i'm learning a lot from lots of great folks on this list, like you! Thanks again, tom
Wow! great looking job.

Fir is still stronger than Hydrotek. The problem is it is so hard to get in high quality and very hard to find in 3/8. Hydrotek is clear, very pretty, and the BS1088 standard hold them to a great manufacturing process. Because your strips will be on the bottom of the boat I would firs opt for good fir if you can hand pick it.

Hydrotek will do well but you should make sure to give it a good soak of epoxy before you glass anything. At seven layers per 9mm it has thin layers.

Here's another idea. If you want a final thickness of 3/8 for the traditional look but not be held to a traditional method, I would use 1/4 Hydrotek, scarf it . wrap it on three sides with 20oz tri-axel cloth and flow coat it just like fiberglass bottom. The final thickness would be about 3/8 and you would have bottom strips that are tough as nails.
Hi Randy, excellent ideas! Thanks SO much!

Yes, we have d-fir i can rip to just under 3/8.

Again, this all will be painted American Flag red, so the wonderful floor i see now will all be submerged under paint. Oh well.

So what do you think about putting a thin coat of epoxy on the fir (without glass), and then screwing it down to the bulkhead ribs using a bedding caulking like 3M 4200, then painting?

That way the rub stip look-a-like's are in place, and they are replacable.

Thoughts?

Thank you again, and I really appreciate your help on this project! Yours, tom

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