Alternative to Oil?

Many people seem to have had success using oil on the interior of their boats.  I wonder if any one has tried a product like Thompson's Water Seal for this purpose?  It works for exterior decks etc.  There must be some reason no one suggests using it, I just don't know what that might be.

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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on February 28, 2010 at 7:07pm
Larry: Check the label on the can to see what the product contains- it might be paint thinner with added parafin wax. You can make your own- turpintine,linseed oil,pine tar(if you want to darken it a little) and japan drier. Will probably be cheaper than Thomsons and the mix has been used for years- since the days of wooden ships- and iron men.
Good luck
Permalink Reply by larry Hambley on March 1, 2010 at 4:11am
Lawrence, I agree that oil is probably the best bet and I intend to use the mix Dave Z. was kind enough to share on a recent forum discussion. I still wonder if any one has tried Water Seal (or similar product) and what was the result? By extension, has any one used the boat oil mix for other exterior wood items (decks, bird houses, etc.) and what was the result?
Thanks
Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on March 1, 2010 at 8:05am
I use the linseed/turp/varnish 1:1:1 mix all the time, making sure the varnish component is a high-UV-blocker variety. I use it on gunwales, brightwork, oars, the doors on my house, etc.

I've also used the linseed/turp/pine tar/japan drier with good results, although it is a but gooeier until it has fully dried. And I worry that there is no UV blocker in the mix. (But it does have an enchanting old-world odor to it.)

Often I use whatever is in my can of goop--it's either one or the other of the above of or a mix of both. It all seems to work just fine.

The selling points to me are:
1) no build-up, flaking, peeling, need for excessive sanding.
2) quick slop-on, rub dry application
3) Looks really great
4) Allows the wood to breathe, and to dry out after extended immersion. Sealing both sides of plywood is an invitation to rot once one of the skins begins to leak. And they always do in this business. I think the full inside/outside encapsulation theory is a lot more valid on sailboats that aren't forever bumping and grinding along the shore.

If you do decide to go with Thompsons, you can be our guinea pig. Let us know how it holds up over the short-term and long-term!
Permalink Reply by larry Hambley on March 1, 2010 at 9:39am
Brad, Not sure I have the nerve to be a "guinea pig" after all the work that goes into a boat. I have never heard of the 1:1:1 mix you use but sounds reasonable. I assume you would use a spar varnish? With the varnish added do you have to sand before re-coating?

I'm still new at this boat building so I have to learn from guys like you. Thanks for the info!
Permalink Reply by Jonathan Clarke on March 1, 2010 at 10:33am
My only experience with Thompson's was some time ago when we used it on a deck. I thought at the time it was basically linseed oil diluted with a lot of mineral spirits or somesuch. I know it didn't do a particularly effective job in it's intended use. What waterproofing there was didn't persist particularly long, either. Oddly, the deck was like a skating rink when it was wet. I give it two thumbs way down.
Permalink Reply by larry Hambley on March 1, 2010 at 11:24am
Jonathan, That nails it. I will use a home made mix. Thanks a lot!
Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on March 1, 2010 at 12:14pm
Yeah, a good spar with good UV. And no, you don't have to re-sand.
Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on March 1, 2010 at 12:57pm
Larry:
When using the mix to do a bunkhouse floor I forgot to add the Japan Drier- this was 6-7 years ago. In spots it is still a little "tacky" and my wife reminds me of this at times. Going a little heavy on the drier side won't hurt. My mix is 1 quart each of linseed oil and turps,1/2 pint pf pine tar 1/4 pint drier. Have not tried adding varnish but might on the next build.
Good Luck
Permalink Reply by Brad Dimock on March 1, 2010 at 6:36pm
Yeah, if you are doing a mix with pine tar, don't forget that Japan Drier! And it is good to rub this finish dry after a good soak regardless--it sometimes stays gooey even with the Japan Drier if it is thick.

One more note--some folks substitute Mineral spirits (paint thinner) for the turpentine in either variety of mix. It probably doesn't make that much difference and is a good deal cheaper, but it just doesn't smell as nice! (I grew up around turpentine and have a weakness for that piney odor.)

Sounds like Jonathan was the guinea pig on the Thompson's experiment. Thanks for saving anyone else from trying that one!
Permalink Reply by lhedrick on March 1, 2010 at 7:09pm
I have used it on several projects over the years. It doesn't seem to last very long. I have mixed it with linseed oil, varnish and wax and have done better.

This past season I tired Penofin oil, the hardwood formulation. Several coats, let it soak in 20 min the wipe off the excess. Then I mix the same oil with turpentine and bees wax to a consistency of honey. Rub on once a month. This has worked fairly well.

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