Started on a GC Dory from Andy H. plans (18x54) some time ago and decided to post a few images from the build. The plans were put in CAD and cut on a CNC router so there are puzzle joints on large panels. A few modifications from the original design include laminated bow and stern posts and laminated gunwales. It has been a fun build and I am currently fiddling with gutters and hatches. See how this works and I will post more images.


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Some 1/4 scale dories materialized a few days ago. These will get electric motors, rudders, and r/c controllers to roam around local lakes. The design plan for the little guys came from Roger’s book.
The mini dory got flipped over and is getting prepped for bottom glass. The chine gaps were filled with 406 filler and soon to be rounded over.


Applied 17 oz biax to the bottom wrapped 2 inches over the side and followed that with one layer of 6 inch wide, 12 oz biax tape at the chine and 2 layers at the bow and stern offset 2 inches. Next phase is to laminate the outer gunwales with 2 layers of 3/8 inch plywood 2 inches wide.


those lil ones are awesome.

I did one layer of 17oz biax on mine as well.  If I did it again (and when I redo it), I will add a sacrificial layer of either 6-8oz plain weave or some burly woven roving.  The exposed biax threads will "tear/shred" when you whack a rock hard.  While woven fabrics are less strong, they are tougher and won't tear as easily because all the threads go over/under each other.  I had a lot of bottom repairs to do after grinding sleeper rocks on the Main last summer.  (I know...preferably shouldn't hit rocks in the first place!!!)

Wish I had laminated my gunnels..the little boat has a tight radius at the sheer and I exploded a couple of outers.  IMO 2" high is probably stronger/heavier than you need for a little boat.  Many big GC dories only have 1.5-1.75"h gunnels.

Laminated one side of the outer gunwale. Takes a bit of patience and a lot of clamps to keep it positioned with that curve in this little boat. Great point about the bottom biax Shawn. I will definitely cover it with 6 oz to avoid that problem you mentioned. 


Put on a skim coat to smooth out the sides for paint prep and started on two different size molds for hatch drains. The drains will be fiberglass, vacuum bagged on the molds.


That's next-level stuff right there.  Awesome.

Put down one layer of 6 oz cloth over the biax on the bottom and rolled on a few coats of epoxy with graphite to finish it off. First coat of exterior paint will be next and then flip over for interior work.


I layed up the hatch drains on the male molds and pulled off the first two. Still need to trim the edges and prep for under deck mounting. They should shed a lot of water to the footwell. I am making deck templates now. Also getting ready for The Great Race antique car rally in June from Rhode Island to Fargo, North Dakota. If you live along the route come out and say hello. We are on the road for 9 days and arrive in Fargo on June 26th.


The little one is coming along. Mounted the gutters and decks and assembled hatches. Need to tape the deck seams next and laminate the inner gunwale.


Excellent carpentry. 

Beauty job on those deck side hatch lips/frames.

You could probably sell them.

Thank you guys. 


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