Wooden Boat People
By McKenzieDriftBoat.com
Gonna build some OARS!!
So Im in my first boat build and I am also going to build some oars. Ive thumbs some pics on here and I have an idea. I just dont know if its a good idea or not?
Im thinking about making some 9'6" oars. Im thinking a spruce core and ash exterior for the shaft. The blade will be ash laminates with glass around them.
I plan to rip the spruce to 1" squared for the core and wrap that with ash, making the shaft 2 to 2 1/2" thick, depending on the oarlocks.
I plan to end for the end the ash rips before lamination. Laminating will be done along a straight edge and clamped both ways to keep them straight. I am assuming they will stay straight after the glue sets up. Correct?
Or, should I just go all spruce because I have alot of solid long wood in spruce, ash, etc.
I was going to go all ash but thought a little lighter oar would be nice, hence the idea for a spruce core?
Im open to all ideas, finding info on building oars doesnt come easy online for some reason.
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Replies to This Discussion
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Permalink Reply by Lawrence E. Long on
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-Josh: The best information about building oars is in a book by R.D. Culler. At the moment I do not have the exact tile but have a copy of chapter 3 and 4. The book is long out of print(as is R.D. Culler) If you can build a boat you can also build the oars. Hand made oars can be made to your exact requirements. I have done 4 sets 1 in ash, 1 spruce and 2 douglas fir. Ash and spruce are soild 1 piece off the "plank". The other 2 have DF shafts and plywood blades. No fiberglass on any of them.
The ash is much harder to work up and gives a heavier oar, spruce much easier to work and lighter. The DF/PW is the easier/faster and about midway in weight between the others. If you look in the pictures section around page 33 or so you will see my DF/PW . Rick Newman put them on the site for me
Ash will be a stiffer oar, spruce will have a little "life" in the shaft. If you laminate the shaft with a "core of spruce and ash on all 4 sides it might be as stiff as a telephone pole especially if you wrap it in FG. If your planks are 2-2/12 thick I would go for the solid 1 piece oar in either ash or spruce. You could also glue up 2 or 3 planks to get your required thickness.
Laminated blades are common but sometimes "split" at the glueline which is why I used PW. Keeping the ballance point just outboard of the oarlock is hard to do especially with long oars and some use counter weights or as I have done glue in short sections of wood between the handle and the oarlock to give you a square loom.
Good Luck page35-36
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Permalink Reply by Josh Wieschowski on
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Thanks a bunch! What prevents the one piece from the "plank" from wanting to warp or twist? I thought if I laminated some pieces together that they would tend to stay straight! Im not sure though. I have material that is close to diameter, but I might have to add a little where they hit the locks to make them a little thicker. No big deal if I have to do that.
Im just curious to know what will make the life of the oars longer and better to use. Thanks again!
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Permalink Reply by Rick Newman on
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Josh, the toughest time on oars is usually transporting them. Using them to push off rocks and hitting the bottom of the stream bed is probably second.
Ray Heater a boat builder that has been around a long time has some good suggestions for oar treatments.Maybe not as long as Lawrence! He seems to have a lot of expereince and wisdom when it comes to the subject of drift boats.
Below is the link to the discussion. http://www.woodenboatpeople.com/forum/topics/refinish-oars?commentI...
Good luck on your projects. We would love to see some pictures.
Rick Newman
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Thanks Rick. Thanks for sending me over here too by the way. I am thewhispercritter over at Montana River Boats. I came over here right away and signed up. Thanks again!
Pictures will be coming soon showing the progress of the boat, Hopefully Ill have time to stitch er up early next week.
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The hardest thing for me to figure out is whether or not to make them a solid oar or use 1"x1" rips and laminate them together. The rest is probably to each his own, I just dont want the "shafts" or "looms" to warp!
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Josh, part of what will happen to wood depends on how it has been aged. Kiln dried or air dried, has it been in the environment it will be used in for a few days or weeks. Not soaked in water but in an outside environment. What is the grain structure of the wood you are planning on using, straight or does it have run-out (grain that runs across the stock not in line with the stock) CV grain, clear vertical grain wood will stand a better chance of remaining stable than other grain structures. Do some study on how wood is cut, here's a site I just found http://workshopcompanion.com/KnowHow/Design/Nature_of_Wood/1_Wood_G... . Depending on the type of wood, the grain structure, the age and dryness will help determine it's eventual movement or lack of movement.
Hope this helps. And in regards to your request that just came through, yes, I'll be your friend. I'm glad I can help. PS if you can get to the 8th Annual Wooden Boat Festival in Vida, Oregon about 30 miles from Eugene it will be well worth your money and trouble.
Rick Newman
Rick Newman
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Making it across the country wont work for me right now......bummer too. Sounds like a blast.
Thanks for the link. Ill have to read up on it and then examine my pile of wood. Its all kiln dried and has set for several years. Its in great condition. Hopefully it wont take me forever to make a decision. Thanks again!
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