Guy's Wooden Drift Boat Project

Hello Everyone,

 

My name is Guy and this is my first post in this forum.  I am here because I want to build a wooden drift boat and, undoubtedly, I will occasionally need advice of the pool of experts and experienced drift boat builders on this forum.

 

In preparation for this project I have read and studied three books: Drift Boats and River Dories by R. L. Fletcher, Boatbuilding with Plywood by G. L. Witt, and Covering Wooden Boats with Fiberglass by A. H. Vaitses.  I have also developed my own set of construction plans based off of the "Original McKenzie Double-Ender with Transom" in Fletcher's book.  I used and MS Excel spreadsheet to calculate all of the dimensions, cut angles, compound angles, and bevel angles of all frame components and I used Pilot3D software to calculate the as-cut dimensions of the plywood sides and bottom.  At this point I am pretty comfortable with the mechanics of construction and I think that I am just about ready to start purchasing lumber.

 

Presently, I plan to use Meranti Hydro-Tek plywood; 1/4-in. on the sides and 1/2-in. on the bottom.  I found plenty of places to purchase these materials, but they are all far away from Idaho Falls, Idaho, and as a result shipping costs more than the materials.  Are any of you aware of a business within a few hundred miles of Idaho Falls that sells this plywood?  I have a few requests in to the local lumber companies, but I have yet to talk with someone who has heard of this material before.

 

I also plan to use Port Orford Cedar (CVG) for the straight frame sections and White Oak (quater sawn) for the bent frame sections (chine logs and sheer rails).

 

Thank you, Guy

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Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 8, 2012 at 6:48pm

Thanks Greg.  Please stop by some time.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 8, 2012 at 6:45pm

Tonight I trimmed and sanded the overlapping edges of the bottom.  I started cutting with a saber saw and quickly realized that things were not going well.  So I switched over to one of those "Japanese-style" saws, which was not too much effort and it worked perfectly for this application.

It's got a nice tight fit all the way around.

Now I have to decide how to proceed.  I still have to work on the bow and dry-fit the boweye.  Then I have to think about the interior and whether I need any more wood screw holes through the hull before I fiberglass the outside.  (One of the last things that I will do is drill the holes for the drain plugs.)

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 10, 2012 at 12:08pm

This morning I fished fairing and sanding the hull.  Then I applied a layer of fiberglass to one of the side panels.  I am going to finish the hull in four sections (each side panel, transom, and bottom) and not try to do it all at once.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 12, 2012 at 6:58am

Enjoying the process Guy,looks good.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 13, 2012 at 8:24pm

Not exciting work, but it has to be done.

One side panel is ready for painting.  The sequence was as follows:

1) wet-out the 10 oz. fiberglass

2) apply four additional coats with a foam roller, waiting about 2 hrs between coats

3) let epoxy cure for two days and sand smooth with 80 grit

4) scrub and wash with water

5) apply two additional coats with a foam roller, waiting about 30 min between coats

6) let epoxy cure for one day and sand smooth with 220 grit

7) scrub and wash with water

This took almost 1 gal. of epoxy.

Just before painting (which isn't for weeks) I will wipe down the surface with a solvent per instructions from the paint manufacturer.

These pictures were taken after sanding with 220 grit.

Permalink Reply by Phillip Westendorf on June 13, 2012 at 8:36pm

Guy,

SWEET!  Otherwise I am lost for words.  Great job!  I'm jealous too.

phil w.

Permalink Reply by tungsten on June 14, 2012 at 6:22am

Hard to tell in the photos but are you laying the glass over the chine onto the floor?

I ask because the chine(floor) edge looks too sharp for glass to lay over.Or are you triming the glass right at the floor?

Also you would use  less epoxy if you thickened your 2nd coat to fill the weave.this would make the sanding,fairing alot easier.

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 14, 2012 at 4:56pm

Tungsten,

At first I thought that I would wrap the fiberglass cloth over the side and onto the bottom.  But after I began wetting-out the fiberglass, I changed my mind and decided to trim the cloth along that edge.  This is now my plan…

1) Fiberglass and epoxy the side panels and trim the cloth flush to the bottom edges.

2) The cloth on each side panel does overlap the stem (by 2 inches) and the edge of the transom (by 2 inches).

3) After the side panels and transom are fiberglassed and epoxied, attached the chine caps using 3M 5200 and wood screws into the chine logs.  (In other words, I’m attaching the chine caps as if they are as permanent as the rest of the boat.)

4) Sand the bottom of the chine caps flush with the bottom of the boat to make one continuous flat-rocker surface.

5) Fiberglass and epoxy the bottom and trim the cloth along the outside edge of the chine caps.

6) Attach 1/8th inch by 1 inch metal (probably silicon bronze) strip along the length of the chine caps using 3M 5200 and wood screws into the chine caps.

I’ve gone back and forth over what to do, and that is what I finally settled on.  I figure that if I ever have to replace the chine caps, it will require a little extra effort, but it can still be done.

Guy

Permalink Reply by chris towles on June 15, 2012 at 12:05am
I see a few holes in your plan. First Don't glass over the chine caps at all...ever. the fiberglass edge is nOw exposed to hits which happen every time you go out and the glass will very quickly delam taking your bottom treatment with it. My old roomates tat men was glassed over the cap to the actual chine line and and he had to completely redo the bottom after 10-15 days on the river. Instead, glass side panels and bottom to the chine edge..trim them and sand, then place the chine cap over that joint. This way the cap does its job which is to protect and reinforce the chine joint .. Both the plywood and glass joint. Run the batten just slightly proud so it protects that joint line good.. Do a search there are a few threads on it. Also, 5200 on chine caps which should be removeable is a potential pia repair in the making. You'll need a grinder to remove it.. It is a perment bond, instead try sikaflex 291 which has great medium adhesion,flex, and is removable or try a polysulfide caulk for even less adhesion but a good easily removeable sealant. The mechanical fastening will hold the chine batten in place, so adhesion isn't as prime a factor as you might think. You will need to repair this at some point, so dont make it perment. It's like a bumper on your car, whack something and it crunches and gets damaged instead on translating that energy into the body panels. Then when it's all busted up and tired from years of rock abuse on the river, you can just yank the caps and screw and glue new ones in. Good as new
Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 15, 2012 at 5:32am

Perhaps I now have a new plan.  Thanks Chris.  That's the great thing about this forum, eventually the good advice starts to sink in.  I'm going to start glassing the next side panel today.

I just found this...

http://blog.dankim.com/2009/04/24/marine-sealants/

Permalink Reply by Guy Fredrickson on June 14, 2012 at 4:57pm

Thanks Phillip.

Permalink Reply by Greg Jensen on June 14, 2012 at 10:20am

Guy - great job!

Although you are making me feel useless and lazy and jealous, as I have not been able to do anything to my boat for about 2 months... Keep up the good work....

Greg

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